How to make an XT90 Loop Key

Wow @Fatglottis that’s some great insight, thank you.

So, “don’t push it in slowly” is the correct answer it seems.

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…go to this link right here :wink:

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LoL I guess but I still think epoxy works better than that.

And the cover is confusing because anytime the key is unplugged, you shouldn’t be riding and splashing stuff on the port :thinking: Seems like perhaps a fix for a problem that doesn’t actually exist.

The charge port definitely needs ingress protection.

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Shh, dont tell them Brian. :shushing_face: Its a “value add” :joy:

(Also I have seen people asking about them so it’s a simple enough thing to add, plus it acts as a bit of a gasket around the connector)

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I was thinking of it as a gasket as well. Plus, for those that have kids and don’t want to worry about them sticking metal objects, like the tweezers from Operation around the loop key connector… I see it as an extra level of security… Kind of like a double condom for the extra paranoid

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Min height loopkey:


Channel for grip

XT-90s and normal loopkey for scale

Ground/polished by dremel

PETG cover, filled with epoxy:


Assembled. Has physical catch designed into side walls. Can’t be disassembled without damage, even before the epoxy.

Installed:


LightningLoopkey_v2.stl (1.5 MB)

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So I just made a loop key using the female boardside instead of male :man_facepalming: Does it matter?

Yes.
You can’t seal that to an enclosure well.
If it breaks you’ll need to rip your setup to bits instead of just making another key.

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This, times ten

This, times one

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Thanks! Lucky I bought 2 :rofl:

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I have the female on mine so there’re no exposed pins on the board. It sits in an xt90 holder fine, tiny bit of glue to hold in place. Then if I ever need to replace it it’ll be easy enough to knock out / crack glue with pliers. But it’s still watertight. If mine breaks I can open my peli VESC enclosure and use the unity’s switch pins though.

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The female connectors are not watertight. If you inspect very closely, there are little tiny holes in the metal bullet connectors that the XT90S is made from.

I don’t understand this logic. Are you worried about a small child sticking a fork into the one electrical achilles heel of your board? Metal shavings falling into the hole? An avalanche of paperclips sweeping it away?

When you’re out riding, the loop key will be plugged in and there won’t be exposed anything.
If you’re storing in an unsafe environment, a 3d printed cover (or tape) is a fine cover.

Shorting the pins out would just turn on the board anyway… it’s not like you’ll blow up the battery or something.

Or an XT90 with the back cover on but no soldered / wired connection between the pins.

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Simple genius right here

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I admit it’s not that necessary in this instance, but it follows the same principle used on every other electrical power source

Yes but in this case there are reasons for the hot side to be male. In most cases I’d agree with you, except connectors going through an esk8 enclosure.

Depends if you have a 3D printer or not I mount females on to things all the time at work with a 3D printed holder friction fit and a dab of super glue

this is the one in my esk8 charger

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That’s still a lot harder to seal than this

There are also little tiny holes in the female pins that the male pins don’t have, if you haven’t found them and filled them, then it’s not water resistant.

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