How to make an XT90 Loop Key

[Nate4]

So I just made a loop key using the female boardside instead of male Does it matter?

[rosco]

Yes.
You can’t seal that to an enclosure well.
If it breaks you’ll need to rip your setup to bits instead of just making another key.

[b264]

@rosco

You can’t seal that to an enclosure well.

This, times ten

@rosco

If it breaks you’ll need to rip your setup to bits instead of just making another key.

This, times one

[Nate4]

Thanks! Lucky I bought 2

[Sonic]

I have the female on mine so there’re no exposed pins on the board. It sits in an xt90 holder fine, tiny bit of glue to hold in place. Then if I ever need to replace it it’ll be easy enough to knock out / crack glue with pliers. But it’s still watertight. If mine breaks I can open my peli VESC enclosure and use the unity’s switch pins though.

[b264]

The female connectors are not watertight. If you inspect very closely, there are little tiny holes in the metal bullet connectors that the XT90S is made from.

[sleepless]

@Sonic

so there’re no exposed pins on the board

I don’t understand this logic. Are you worried about a small child sticking a fork into the one electrical achilles heel of your board? Metal shavings falling into the hole? An avalanche of paperclips sweeping it away?

When you’re out riding, the loop key will be plugged in and there won’t be exposed anything.
If you’re storing in an unsafe environment, a 3d printed cover (or tape) is a fine cover.

[b264]

Shorting the pins out would just turn on the board anyway… it’s not like you’ll blow up the battery or something.

[rosco]

@sleepless

If you’re storing in an unsafe environment, a 3d printed cover (or tape) is a fine cover.

Or an XT90 with the back cover on but no soldered / wired connection between the pins.

[sleepless]

Simple genius right here

@rosco

XT90 with the back cover on but no soldered

[Sonic]

I admit it’s not that necessary in this instance, but it follows the same principle used on every other electrical power source

[b264]

Yes but in this case there are reasons for the hot side to be male. In most cases I’d agree with you, except connectors going through an esk8 enclosure.

[Darkie02]

@b264

@rosco

You can’t seal that to an enclosure well.

This, times ten

@rosco

If it breaks you’ll need to rip your setup to bits instead of just making another key.

This, times one

Depends if you have a 3D printer or not I mount females on to things all the time at work with a 3D printed holder friction fit and a dab of super glue

this is the one in my esk8 charger

[b264]

That’s still a lot harder to seal than this

@b264

20210413_0824404656×2328 1.53 MB

There are also little tiny holes in the female pins that the male pins don’t have, if you haven’t found them and filled them, then it’s not water resistant.

[Stephensound]

@Fatglottis

ot precharged… and you get the spark.

The trick is to first get the first stage connection

Just got my one in the post today so we’ll made thanks

[b264]

@Fatglottis

Probably my xt90s are fake though so maybe that’s why.

Those look like genuine Amass connectors.

[Darkie02]

@b264

There are also little tiny holes in the female pins that the male pins don’t have,

You posted a pic showing the hole in the male

[xsynatic]

The image was referring towards it being harder to seal a 3d printed mount conpared to the xt connector itself.

---

female vs male

[frame]

damn, that’s some HD photos, dat with a phone camera?

[xsynatic]

@frame

damn, that’s some HD photos, dat with a phone camera?

Yessir