How to make a XT90 Loop key

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics
#33

I stand corrected.

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#34

@BillGordon
So, is it safe to use only solder? Was easier for me, but is it bad?
It has the same thickness a wire would have, probably little higher resistance, but is it important to have wire?

1 Like
#35

I would put it more as not ideal than wrong. You bridged the connections, which is the intent.

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#36

It’s fine as long as you have a way to unplug it

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#37

I was wondering what is the difference between the adapter to connect battery in series and the harness to add the loop key. Do they have the same set up?

#38

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#39

That’s exactly what I did but since I have my 12s in series I need an adapter in series and add the loop key but before that I decided to change all my connectors to xt90 anti spark. Now for some reason even after charging my battery when accelerating on my vx1 the battery indicator goes down all to none and goes back up when I stop accelerating. Already checked all the connections and also the cells that is all balanced. It was working fine before I decided to add the loop key and the xt90 anti spark. The funny part is that when I run the motors on the vesc tool app everything goes back to normal for a little and goes back. The board doesn’t move at all. Wondering if was the xt 90 ? The loop key is working fine.

#40

You can print a plug to cover it when not in use. And if you have children at home, that would be a good idea. You’ll never know when they decide to stick a screwdriver in there.

Do you have a link to the 3D printer files? I can’t seem to find a plug for the male connector, only covers (which won’t work with the printed mounts).

#41

Wouldnt it be better to have it on positive side since its theoretically more likeley for ground to short somewhere on case??

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#42

Yeah that’s the common way to to it

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#43

Thingiverse is your friend - Search Thingiverse - Thingiverse

I haven’t printed these personally, so no guarantees

Edit: more on grabcad
https://grabcad.com/library/xt90-and-xt60-caps-1
https://grabcad.com/library/xt90-cover_esc-1

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#44

IMG_20210412_175113 (1)
IMG_20210412_175113 (1)3000×3000 201 KB

Here’s a new option :grin:

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#45

I wish they made these with the screws in the other orientation, like above and below.

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#46

I dont think I am picturing what you’re describing?

Ohhhh, like the screw holes above and below the opening for the connector. Still on the same plane though.

I thought you meant rotated 90 degrees on a different plane :sweat_smile:

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#47

OH SHI-

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#48

Since I’m new to all these and about to plunge into my first build, I have a dumb question. I’m most likely going to go the loop key route as it looks more robust and safe.
Using the example in the original post, do I still need to do anything on the VESC to establish close circuit? Seem like most of the YouTube videos I watched use a switch plugged in to the VESC so I assumed that the VESC’s circuit Is open until the switch is plugged in and engaged. Or is the VESC on as soon as power is supplied to it?

Thanks.

#49

Certain vescs do have switches built in. It will depend on which one you use if you have one or not

Thus, with the loop key, you can use it no matter what, but what ESC are you going to use?

There is nothing on a non-antispark switch vesc that you need to do in order to use a loopkey

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#50

Thanks, much appreciated.
I’m putting together a single drive Urban Carver so I’ll be using a Trampa VESC6 MkV.

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#51

Of course, yeah with that VESC, you don’t need to do anything special, just wire the loop key in series with the positive battery connection between the battery and esc and you’re good.

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#52

Awesome! So do I connect the loop on the + (red?) side of the series wiring harness?

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