Can someone help me out? I can’t seem to get the transmitter to bind. The red light on the remote flashes for a second or 2 then turns solid. The blue light on the receiver just keeps flashing. Has this happened to anyone else before? I’m pretty sure I’m doing everything right.
If the receiver isn’t seeing the remote during the bind process, it’s possible it’s not looking for the right remote?
check the continuity of your bind key, maybe that’s got a loose connection in the crimp not letting it remap
another 14500 hack for double the capacity would be to put them in parallel, tape over one of the terminals in the remote, and wire a jumper in its place
I ended up getting a new mini remote and receiver. My old remote binded to the new reciever just fine, so it must have been a problem with the original reciever.
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Anyone has an Idea how to bind the mini remote with failsafe so that it’s breaking on signal loss? With Ackmaniac it was 180% throttle but this doesn’t seem to work for vesc fw4.2
Simply hold the trigger on slight brake position when you pull the loop to set the failsafe.
I don’t recommend that, but that’s how to do it.
Also then don’t use firmware set up with a reverse feature if you do this.
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Ok, thanks for the clarification! Tried that but it is indeed not recommend if you use reverse. I was hoping that it would be of the same intelligence of Ackmaniac, too bad!
is 1.4V for a AA battery considered dead (I googled it) if so would two AA battery each reading 1.4V cause random micro cutoffs (with the mini) while accelerating and long braking? i measured both batteries in the remote and got 2.9V powered and 3.0V powered off
This is the exact behavior of the Mini right before the AA batteries die.
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after replacing the batteries do i have re-bind the remote.
You do not need to.
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I tested a few minis, and they started to go erratic around 2.4-2.5v. 2.6v they should still be working well.
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It wasn’t until a year of using Mini Remotes I noticed the same phenomenon. I think it was just sheer luck the the other ones had their failsafe set close enough by chance to not notice.
Also I used to use 15% deadband (VESC Tool default) but now I prefer 7% deadband… and have used down to 4% before.
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Yeah i have 4 builds all using mini remotes that i modified. Recently rebuilt 2 of them with upgraded parts and this is the first time it has happened to me. Ive been using my original mini remote from my first build for over 3 years! Great to keep on learning
What does deadband do? 
Deadband is the “wiggle room” in the center of the throttle where it neither accelerates nor brakes, it’s the “neutral”.
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I’m actually using this with an RC car, wondering if there is a way to “reverse” the way it reacts to input? Like in some RC car transmitters it allows you to switch servo directions from “normal” to “reverse”
Mostly need it to work with steering. 
I think you can disassemble the remote and reverse the wires coming off the potentiometer.
I don’t know of a way to do it otherwise.
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Damn, oh well haha. Mostly got this for a future build and also to interim use with this car while the actual RC transmitter arrives.
Since this remote can pair to multiple receivers, you could in theory use the same remote for the RC car and for an esk8.
Just pair them all and set the failsafes all at the same time.