the less the better. Hammock adds around 20mm riser at 50degree. I personally route a channel in the deck and run the cable underneath. I like low ride board.
Anyhow the hammock is mounted reverse. Logo in front 
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I am running a 3mm rubber riser at the front, and a flatland 3d bash guard and tunnel riser at the back. However I am running 60 deg at the front and about 35 at the back, so the risers helped balance the height and they are the same now. If you plan to do split angles than the tunnel riser should be fine since a lower angle will make it low.
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Oh hell yeah, I’m seeing some really cool stuff here! I’m definitely gonna go for it and run split angles similar to Linny, should be fun. @legend27 how fast do you go with something like that? Does it really limit your speed all THAT much?
It’s not that it limits speed but it increases leverage between deck and trucks.
Witch makes wobbles a bit more interesting.
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i’ve gone about 46 km/h I believe. not as fast as others, but that’s when my board tops out. Had wobbles once and drove them out.
The trick to avoid wobbles for me, seems to be tightening the back truck instead of both/front. That makes it still very turn able but all the wobbles disappear at the back of the board instead of continuing.
I am by no means a truck expert and what im saying is probably totally not understandable 
edit:
That was too many risers though. Never road it on the road, but didnt feel good standing on 
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Spot on, alawys keep your back trucks tighter than your front
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I usally test 3d printed risers until I find the perfect height, then go from there. Anything over a inch tends to put the board to high up making bails alot harder.
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I don’t think I need to actually say it in words, but that’s a lotta miles. 
Is it still pretty much the same 13S Master Evo? Any routine maintenance items learned? Battery pack still has balls? No DRV errors?
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What is the actual size of the wheels now
Your helmet must stink soooo bad 
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I just tried your tip with the superglue on the 77A Caguamas this week, they started chunking in less than 100 km, did wonders to them, thanks a lot for this
And about risers, the least amount, none if possible, mounting drop through is even better
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I’m not sure about this. Topmount always felt “better” to me, more in control. Drop mount seems to mute the control and agility.
Not so much of an issue for me with eskate because I tend to be going straight and fast most of the time. All this time, I still don’t like to take deep turns at any kind of speed on motorized boards, fearing glitches.
I don’t mind tons of riser either. I’ve had up to 1.5" on non-powered boards.
I can confirm this, but my personal preference is to the board to be dead stable, even if it’s not as maneuverable. In mine is this two times since the hummie deck is dropped. In the end I like being really close to the ground, my enclosure has a significant amount of scratches
???secrets??
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Really, you shouldn’t be using too much riser. Ideally, only use as much as is required to eliminate wheel-bite or any other clearance issues you might have on your setup.
The main issue with too tall risers is the increased forces on your deck. Certain decks this is a huge issue. Drop through decks, top mounted, no reinforcements on the deck with tall risers- this is probably the worst case scenario. Something like an evo with wheel cutouts but no drop though cuts, not as bad but I’d be weary adding excessively tall risers to it. A top mount deck with lots of wood around the mounting holes, no cut-outs to reduce wheel bite, I wouldn’t worry about using too tall of risers nearly as much - and this is where those X-Thingies come in handy… They take the stress off the tiny hole and spread it out across the wood all around the mounting holes: Great!!!
But these X-Thingies are only as good as the strength of your deck. They will prevent your hardware from digging into/weakening the wood around the holes themselves, but on a drop-through/cut out style board, they won’t magically prevent your board from snapping at it’s weakest point.
So, TLDR, use as much risers as you need to prevent wheelbite. Going any higher is not really doing you any service unless your enclosure doesn’t clear the ground or something. If you need to use channel risers to route your cables, that’s fine, but if the only reason you are jacking your board up to the cosmos is easier cable routing and your board becomes excessively tall, maybe consider 3d printing an alternative cable routing solution.
shitty diagram for reference:
Since your board is a top-mount deck, being this tall is probably just fine. And you can probably loosey-goosey those trucks with some soft, high rebound bushings and get some crazy good carving action going… if you’re going to jack it up high, at least take advantage of it. I’d look into some of those X-thingies or at least use pan-head hardware (and even add washers) when mounting your trucks for sure.
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Great info, also like the diagram showing the forces!
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Just fill any crack, chunking, holes and whatever with superglue and your wheel will stay in one piece for a long time
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is Krazy glue ok?