That is so smart, well done!
I got a MOV-E deck as well and i might do something like this but with a charge port and button on the front truck instead. Thanks for the inspiration
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Mine is stuck in customs at the moment. Be keen to see what you do so I can shamelessly plagiarize.
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Thanks for the response guys. If anyone is interested in the files I’ll happily share them:)
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Definitely interested bro!
Interested in it if you could share
Underdel.stl (217.0 KB) Overdel.stl (545.6 KB) Charger and xt90 holder v11.step (1.3 MB)
Here are the stls and the STEP file:)
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Missed opportunity here… That outside enclosure could have EASILY been printed to look like a ball sack.
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Haha might have to do that next!
Diy antispark or bust!
The 3D Print can be found easily on thingiverse. Then bridge the key with some copper and solder and epoxy it all into place. Super easy to utilize if it’s always on my lanyard.
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I’m riding the Hopes and prayers train, true yolo diy, no loopkey and antispark, 12s10p pack, board is permanently on. No fuse on the charge port, almost 300 miles, no problems at all 
…baylife
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Not gonna lie, some boards I use super frequently rarely if ever have the loopkey pulled from them until they break down. But they do have a loopkey and definitely a fuse on the charge hole
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Yah also have to admit I’ve moved away from having the separate loop but always have an easy disconnect between the battery and everything else. I’d still advocate for complete newbs to use it as a fail safe and just extra step before powering things up when you can realize something is wrong before smoking things, could also easily inline a fuse or “smoke stopper” when initially testing things and not expecting to draw current but pretty quickly need to start trying things with power after sanity check.
Also have pulled one apart but just wasn’t enough solder, make sure the wire is super well tinned before putting it into the barrel and fill the barrel with solder it will stay molten longer in a large mass (more mass holds more heat longer) then can get the barrel molten and drop your wire in (be liberal with the solder during pretinning both sides). Only down side to the bucket/barrel of molten solder is if it tips you have splashing liquid metal going everywhere so be sure it is well secured and wear goggles/glasses.
Heatshrink with adhesive inside can add some mechanical strength but a good solder joint with thick wire like this should be stronger than the adhesive.
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My last loop key was just a simple loop of 10awg silicone wire, soldered well. I had no issues yanking it out by the loop.
One tip for silicone wire is to tin your wire before stripping - Dab some flux on the end, and then nuke it with a fat iron and a lot of solder until it stops wicking. Let it cool, and then you can strip back the insulation, revealing a perfectly round and beautiful solder-saturated lug, ready to be shoved into an XT-90 or whatever else. No more fighting all the hundreds of unruly tiny strands, or trimming them to fit…
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On my tayto I have to remove it with pliers to avoid pulling on the poorly soldered wire loop
Don’t judge me
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First thing you should do with every wire you solder is tug on it to see if you can pull it off. If you can, it’s not soldered well and needs to be pulled off and resoldered.
Whoops, LoL. Hopefully someone reading this will learn something new 
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if you really struggle to get those connections to bind and its allready a lump of solder on it, some decent use of a small blowtorch will bind it within seconds 
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Oooh i’m gonna have to try that, what a great trick!
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