They are really pretty aren’t they!!!
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Got the new wheels mounted all around today. Didn’t have to shim the wheels but I did have to move the drives out approx 2-3mm (towards the wheel) to make sure the meshing surfaces was snug. See pics below
Before moving drive (new wheel mounted)
After adjusting drive location
But of course no good deed goes unpunished 
Last screw I was tightening back down on the mount (5mm screw on the clamp) snapped the head off. I had heated it up to allow it to loosen (red Loctite) but didn’t heat it up to tighten it back down (other side tightened down ok without heat). This will be a fun one to try and remedy…
@Ean.esk8 any advice?
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What were the davega issues you were having?
Holy shit man. That should not happen with any decent stainless bolt. Looks like you’re going to need a new clamp.
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I’d unbolt the drive from the clamp and get the clamp into a vice. Then cut a slot at the bottom and undo it from that side.
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Lol I just did this on rexxy enclosure 
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It was acting erratically, not displaying correct real-time speed, also taking ages to boot up, amongst other things. Jan mentioned a few other people with similar issues due to possible electromagnetic interference because of a carbon deck, etc. I isolated the Davega from my board with a printed mount and it’s been perfect ever since.
I’m planning on removing the rest of the components from the clamp and see what I can do. There might be enough thread on the other end to cut a slot into for a flathead screwdriver but I’m not sure yet. Problem is, I was tightening this down again so I’m not sure I’ll be able to easily get it off the hanger yet. Worst case some major surgery is in order and I’ll need a new clamp with fresh hardware
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You ever have cutouts where it was like a fault stop and reboot?
Yes, the Davega would reboot on me randomly before I got it straightened out sometimes
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Thinking about my snapped screw debacle, instead of loosening the drives and moving them, I should have just printed a spacer to go between my wheels and the wheel mounting plate. It would have spaced the plate out far enough to mesh with the motor plate and I wouldn’t have had to touch the screws. Hindsight is a bitch! Might still design a spacer for them anyways, in case anyone else is thinking of doing the same. Just need to make sure your M3 wheel screws are long enough to accommodate the spacer.
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So looks like @Ean.esk8 sent me extra clamps. I know their on holiday over in that part of the world. I can send these to ya.
Edit:nvm 22x22 ones
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Sounds like an excuse to buy some 22x22 trucks 
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The extra clamp is for the Matrix 3 
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oh shit. Well i couldn’t tell the difference. Guess I’m Ordering some hangers
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are you famillar with an ez out?Amazon.com
drill small hole with the included bit, use the reverse threaded "ez out bit in a drill. i like this style best but YMMV
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Yep, I have some extractor bits but drilling into the broken screw is a nightmare because it’s stainless. Would rather pay a couple bucks and just get a new clamp at this point
Edit: the ones in your link are the exact ones I have too lol
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Cobalt drill bits go hard
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yes, my thougts exactly, id add use a center punch to get started, i had to do this several times with my 3Dservesas gear drives, till i realized it was the friction between the heads and the AL, now a bit of silicon wd40 first and i never have to do it again. Stainless is doable, just have to take your time,let the drill do the work
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very nice board btw.
when all else fails, pull out the tungsten carbide bits,they cut like butta https://www.amazon.com/JIUWU-Tungsten-Cemented-Stainless-Aluminum/dp/B07HG51HJ2/ref=sr_1_7?gclid=Cj0KCQiAw8OeBhCeARIsAGxWtUwcWnZkWM0Wdc5XHPIoCOGtjab6SNItOP_BHfYg3ej2bsnw8_0U9_waAoNKEALw_wcB&hvadid=177775726485&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1014093&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10636058768048552391&hvtargid=kwd-112858178&hydadcr=1644_9901541&keywords=tungsten%2Bcarbide%2Bdrill%2Bbits&qid=1674692255&sr=8-7&th=1
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