Get yourself some 190kv flupskys. The size of the motors will depend on the trucks and the motor mounts you get, but i would go 6374. They are a great all around sized motor. So find trucks and mounts that fit that motor. Also, you need to choose a deck. That’s prolly your starting point that will guide your limitations on all the other components. Or many of them at least.
40mph is ambitious, but that was my shtick when i first got into DIY too. I was horny for speed, didn’t care about torque, and then i broke my ankle in 3 places and now i don’t go past 32mph, if that, and only for like one short burst.
Let the man live and learn guys. . JK, if you can avoid broken bones i would advise that. And you will learn that torque is way more fun than speed in time anyway. Just be careful. And choose a deck first then i think we can help you a little more with the build!
I was under the assumption that it was a fairly split opinion…that maybe half of people prioritized speed and half prioritized torque, but I’m not too proud to learn from your experience. Do you think the majority of the community shares your opinion that torque is more fun/thrilling than speed?
If so, I’d be fine topping out at around 34/35 to gain some torque.
So as for torque… most vendors don’t list acceleration times or torque in a standardized way. Is there a rule of thumb to help compare boards/drivetrains? All I know is lower kv motor is more torque, and smaller wheels.
I bet NOBODY is smart enough, god-like genius to make a wiki listing pound-foot or Newton-meter calculations for prebuilt boards or common drivetrain choices. And nobody would want the praise of the whole community for doing that…
I’m sure the stock esc is great but usually they run at conservative settings compared to what the motors can take, I think a VESC could make it better.
Yeah eboosted does and looks great but by the time I add a battery from them I’m near my budget. Maybe there is cheaper. I kinda wish I could just send an evo deck and vesc to own board and have them make a Zeus with it but I guess that’s how diy was formed haha.
too many variables. Everything from battery current to gearing ratio to wheels size to motor KV to variances in motors themselves off the production line and even wire quality and thickness in your build can make a difference in end delivery of power. This is why a lot of us overbuild. That, and for safety reasons.
You could prolly get someone to build a 12s4p for an Evo for around $450. That’s just a guestimate but ask around @skyart@JoeyZ5@ZachTetra all good battery builders in US (Im guessing you’re US based?)
If they won’t build you one for that price i can, would just need the enclosure to fit it properly.
I’ve got a bit of a backlog but if you don’t mind the wait would be glad to put together a pack. If you have not yet purchased the enclosure for your evo, I have a single stack Eboosted enclosure brand new that I could sell you aswell.
Yarg I was just about to pull the trigger on the ownboard Zeus thanks to comments above, but now I’m on the fence. Thanks for the offer I’ll let u know.
Yup, the tools you need to bolt an enclosure on and assemble a drivetrain are the tools you’ll need anyway for maintaining any electric skateboard. And If you really wanna go 40mph, an Evo is the way.
Alright I chickened out of jumping into DIY and bought the Zeus. I found a 10% off code plus the free shred lights. I think this will let me wade into the waters of diy rather than jump. My plan is to ride it until I want more torque, then upgrade to a vesc. Then later if I want I can buy an evo+enclosure+battery (no way the Zeus battery would fit is my assumption) and swap everything else. Then later maybe I can build one from scratch:)
Thanks all!!
If/when you need to do maintenance on the Zeus, or you decide to go DIY, one of the number-one most important tools to have for esk8 is a good set of hex keys/allen wrenches. I highly recommend Wera, they make some of the best ones in the world, and their price is absolutely worth it. Cheaper ones tend to round out the fasteners, and even cheaper ones (talking Amazon special) tend to bend or shatter due to inconsistencies in the metallurgy.
