It’s an aluminum heatsink, so there’s no hole. It’s not necessary if you dont ride hard as the ESC won’t get very warm.
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And what happens if you ride very hard, e.g. long distances uphill, and the Foc box gets hot and you do not have a heatsink? What problems can arise?
Chances are the ESC will start to thermal throttle, meaning it’ll start to lose it’s power, and you will notice this as 50% throttle on your remote may feel like 20%, something along those lines. I’ve never had it thermal throttle on the Unity before so you should be alright. The Unity has a heatsink of it’s own at the back already, but the extra material helps.
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Awesome and inspiring build (don’t know if I said that already)!
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Thank you! (don’t know if i thanked you already)!
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A few months ago I removed the MK1 gear drives to retrofit it to trampa trucks. So I got a set of MK2 gear drives also by @avX to hook them on these. Better ground clearance and slightly higher top speed, why not?
I managed to shave off a bit of weight so it weighs in at 9.5kg now. Great!
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Absolutely love it!! No one makes this config and it’s exactly what I want. Short(ish), lightweight, AT comfort, under deck motors. Something easy to tote on the train or bus and cruise urban enviros. Not long range or high speed but that’s not needed for many settings.
I may copycat you! Thanks for the informative post
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What is the height of the riser pads you used?
After a few years, got an upgrade. I changed t he battery pack to a newly built 10s3p P42A, with a LLT smart BMS. I also got the Metr for Unity so i can link my BMS with it.
At some point, i used the Hollow wheels on this board, and it feels like a more nimble TB110.
Then, Luuk’s Hubs finally came so i installed it on here, Since the the gear drive has an adapter that fits Kegel/Abec.
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