So if it’s done at the factory vs being done at the factory and then done again in house to set up your board, I see those as two very different cases. One allows users to majorly F up the programming.
You do not program wired throttles you order online like we do with esk8. They are just sending linearly proportional voltages to how much magnetic force it is exposed to. I can plug one into a 6s bike or a 10s bike and as long as the components are rated in that range, it just works with no reprogramming.
Next you’re going to tell me this isn’t “marketable”
I think the only thing wired remotes would solve (potentially) is reliability. I could probably take the tradeoff if the cable doesn’t get in the way while leaning super deep or jumping with the board.
There are a lot of crap remotes out there. I have 4 flipsky VX1s, all 4 are dead and 2 of them tried to kill me on their way out. But aren’t there any remotes out there with a clean track record?
Correct me here but I don’t know anyone who had issues with RC remotes like the GT2E and GT2B, and that’s just the entry level RC stuff, the high end RC stuff is near damn bulletproof.
Reliability in what sense? Have we had issues with radio signals(not vesc cutouts, or incorrect setup, or broken remote hardware from impact) cutting out on quality remotes?
Most of the reliability issues we have come from the radio connection failing and from bad quality potentiometers failing and setting full throttle without input. A good quality hall sensor can solve the second problem, the first problem is more complex.
As far as the radio problem, I don’t know anyone who had disconnects on RC car remotes on an esk8. I know a lot of people who had disconnects on esk8 remotes though, I also had some. But correct me if I am wrong here.
I’ve been running gt2b for a while now in both my raceboard and my street board. They’ve worked perfectly. Both are in mod cases to reduce the size.
At esk8con my raceboard on the first lap had terrible disconnects. Tried repairing and stuff, same issue. Replaced both receivers on the board, remote still had disconnects.
Replaced the remote with a brand new, full sized gt2b and it worked perfectly.
My other street board had zero issues riding around Vegas, on the strip ride, red rocks etc. it’s running the same mod case gt2b, receiver inside the tomiboi deck/enclosure.
So strange out of nowhere my race board did that. And then for the exact same equipment, albeit not in a mod case, to solve the issue was strange. Wondering if the antenna might have just gotten tangled up in there or something. Who knows.
Then replaced with new gt2b and receivers and issue resolved. Zero disconnects after that. Could have been damaged in traveling to the con. Hard to say.
I’ve seen a few pucks have runaway moments and stuff. Looking at the remotes inside it wasn’t any obvious damage. Pucks hadn’t been damaged, dropped or crashed with. Hard to say what caused the issues but they were different riders, different boards etc.
After seeing it a few times I decided to move on from the puck personally. It’s surprising we haven’t seen a 2.0 yet handling some of the issues.
Meaning a more robust build quality, hall sensor and possibly a screen. (Screen is more a nice to have).
You can doubt it but it’s the truth. I do think even just normal riding and usage over say a course of a year could cause issues. Without the need to drop it and stuff. They were all used in after market cases which could also be a point of problems. Moving the internals over could be a point of user error putting more stress on stuff. Hard to say. But the pucks themselves have looked perfect to me and riders didn’t report ever dropping or falling with it. So I dunno. I thankfully never had an issue with my pucks but seeing the problems and also wanting to move to trigger anyways made the decision easier for me.
Interference is basically a non-issue if you go analog like ebike throttles. Even stray inductance/capacitance won’t make a noticeable difference.
Not to mention that’s literally what esk8 throttles spit out. Hook one up (almost) directly to your escs ADC port and you’re done. So many fewer parts.
I was responding to dinnye about the pucks issues. Those issues don’t have to do with the radio, I think at least. So yeah it went off topic.
My friends puck was also vibrating the entire time at the con. I’m guessing that means it was working correctly though by channel hopping. At least that’s what I’ve heard.
I hope to see a puck with better hardware eventually. Puck in a poast case is the most comfortable wheel remote I’ve used by far. I’m kinda all aboard the trigger train at this point anyways though.i don’t think I can go back now but maybe for a certain type of build.
I yap with Kamen the z.mote guy here and there. He’s pretty receptive to new ideas. I think I’ll ask him how hard it would be to make his trigger remote into a prototype for a hardwired remote. I’d give one a try.
