I’m pretty sure there’s no firmware on it.
How can I confirm this is the case?
While the antispark is plugged in, probe between Switch and GND
it should read close to 5V if there is firmware
0V if no firmware
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I do know those hubs spun up with no fancy switch
reposting pinout
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EVERYONE WHO HAS AN ANTISPARK,
PLEASE MAKE SURE IT WORKS ON THE BENCH BEFORE INSTALLING AND SEALING IT UP INTO THE BOARD.
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I’m here for like 30 mins. Then I must skate. Gloves are still on.
Direct me. I deal with dumb bro’s all day long. It’s rubbing off on me. Want a better multimeter that can be realized too.
I see the inp pin on the switch. I don’t see the other.
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All the pins are on the header on the right, in the pinout shown
Ooooooh , 
, that switch. 
Mute the video. I’m fairly certain I hit the pins (Mains still connected). Ground and third pin down (switch) yielded a goose egg (0.00)
If it’s a me fail, I’ll reread the pamphlet, don’t respond, laugh me off. Talk the expected shit in the lounge.
If it’s a factory, initial firmware fail, life goes on. 
I can maybe manage a firmware write if needed.
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But here, I must actually go skate. Sorry I’m dense.
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No firmware.
You can either ship it to me to program it, or if you’re ok with voiding the warranty, you can try programming it.
I’ll pay the shipping fee through USPS.
Sorry for the inconvenience.
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Be careful not to short those out, they are very, very close together. Doing that can let some magic smoke out
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I saw the ”danger will Robinson”, and calia agreed to take the next shot. 
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What microcontroller will I need between my computer and the target?
I have a knockoff stlink2 that I hate, a 6,6 fesc I’ve used to unbrick a few escs. And a windoz tablet I can’t ducking stand. I keep it around only for franks shit I can’t live with out.
Can record a reasonable “how to get unfucked, if you didn’t get firmware from factory”
If I’m the only loser here, I’ll send it back, shipping on me.
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the target MCU is an attiny85, you can program it with an arduino uno or USBasp, or a proper in-circuit programmer/debugger.
the attiny85 is programmed over an SPI interface, you’ll need one of the things I listed above
arduino uno, USBasp, atmel ice or segger jlink, maybe black magic probe.
you MIGHT be able to use the stlink if you can reprogram it to flash AVRs instead.
My last unsmoked adrunio is in my spotwelder. I’ll send it back to you because I sense you could probably fix this minor hiccup faster and better than I could.
However, if you’re up to your ears in dumb bullshit, I’m not sending it. This isn’t FB or reddit, I can do it myself, eventually. 
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Still running strong. No issues. I’m not very heavy and there are no hills nearby so looking at my logs I’ve only pulled about 40 amps max.
Curious if anyone else is having a good experience as well?
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I have found a possible issue whereby occasionally there is an excessive wait time after auto powerdown before the unit will power back up.
For example, walking around in a store then when you need to leave you need to wait 7 minutes while the antispark is in lockdown/reset mode
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