Do you think this is a power switch? I would start by useing a multi meter seeing if rotating the switch makes and brakes polarity by switching it.
If it was plugged in switched on with no anti spark this could happen or the ESC could be shorted.
2nd I would try powering it up with a PSU (Most chargers are PSU’s should boot up check if there’s and very slowly add a small amount of throttle the wheels should turn. To mutch throat and to many amps will be demanded from the charger and it will drop the voltage or cut out but shouldn’t damage any thing. It the charger voltage drops as soon as it’s turned on id suspect the ESC is tost
I am 90+% sure the ESC is toast as Darkie suggested. Nothing happened when I first plugged it in. And nothing happened after I turned on the switch… Smoke came out after the wheels rolled for just a split second. Now the display is dead (which is also where the power button is).
I am ordering a new VESC. Is the Flipsky dual 4.20 what I want??? Get the pro w the included switch? I had already installed a separate anti-static switch but not sure if that is now toast or not too?
You do not. Also, the circuitry in the new Makerx stuff isn’t an antispark circuit, it’s an ultra low power consumption sleep mode, as far as I know. So they’re unlikely to break.
Might as well just get a puck, it’s really the best you can get right now. I still want to recommend the vx4 but until they put in a better pot I can’t really do that
Since I still know basically nothing about the motors… How should I proceed in first testing / connecting them. I guess step one is to completely remove all the old controllers first?
I’ll also need to figure out how to splice the tiny control wires into the round plug wire.
Each motor has 2 bundles of wire coming out of it. 1 is the typical 3 wire cluster of 12awg wires that connect to the esc, and the other are these tiny 5-wire cables which I assume also connect to the esc. Only on the esc, they are flat white connectors, whereas at the motor side they are these round plugs instead.
if you can follow back to the esc from that 5 pin connector and figure out what wires are red/black that should be ~5V and the other 3 are the hall sensors. Seems like no 6th wire that is usually temp sensor, watch out for melting your motor with the VESC powa!!!
Ok guys, it’s been a while… But, lots of progress to report.
I have a brand new, purpose-built 10s6p battery from @SBS! Super high quality, and was a massive help in digging through all the requirements with me, btw!
I have the DV4s hooked up, the hoyt Puck synced up, and a green light on the switch with no issues.
Note that I do NOT yet have the sensor wires hooked up as I am still waiting for a new cable extension for the male end that was damaged.
The entire “guts” of the prior boards system have been removed. Receiver, dual esc’s, and all the old cabling removed, and replaced w new 3/12 motor wires, etc.
Alas, nothing happens when I text the hoyt Puck, which I am guessing means I need to setup the DV4s on the pc?
I’m struggling to find a sort of definitive “manual” on how to do so? Also, can I do it before I install the sensor wires? Or is that why it’s not working yet? What other settings should I be paying attention to… What other tips? Last thing I would obviously want to do is fry any of this stuff.
You don’t need to attach sensors you can run it sensorless and with sHFI it honestly will run mostly fine.
There’s the motor FOC wizard in the VESC app and then after that you’ll need to run the input wizard. Those are the two most basic things you need to do to minimally get going.
Some extras you’ll have to setup battery current after the wizard. And you’ll need to setup absolute max current on each side.
