Another option I guess would be dielectric silicone grease, though that has a chance to wash away or vibrate off over time. Regardless, i’d highly suggest to re-arrange your pad spacing to reduce the possibility of arc. Considering the few failed ESC’s we’ve seen have a blown positive solder connection, I suspect this has something to do with it. If I do add insulating material to my ESC, will that affect any warranty? I also need to swap to 4mm bullets and AS150 connector for my board.
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Should people just add their own neutral cure silicone (dab of hot glue)?
Simple test before assembling the case. Full current test after assembled the case.
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Good to know; as it turns out, I was mistaken and the air gaps are probably fine, though with the proximity if anything even remotely conductive reaches the pads it’ll still cause a pretty serious short. I’ll probably still add conformal coating of some kind just to hedge my bets.
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Came with correct 5.3 FW uploaded and passed motor detection the first go on a pair of 173kv Reacher V4s. No issues so far, wheels are rolling. I’ll post an update once I can push this thing a little harder, but I’m already higher than what I felt comfortable with on Stormcore.
Not much to note. It works. The power button is much smaller than Stormie so needs a grommet. ̶H̶a̶s̶ ̶a̶n̶ ̶r̶g̶b̶ ̶l̶e̶d̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶p̶o̶w̶e̶r̶ ̶i̶n̶d̶i̶c̶a̶t̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶s̶o̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶’̶s̶ ̶n̶i̶c̶e̶. *Not sure why the power switch indicates vbat on one of the pins, but that led stays green. Phase wires are 11awg. Mosfet side is conformal coated.
No glue under the caps but instead a piece of thermal pad.
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What gauge are the power wires? Looks like 10awg?
Yea they are 10awg
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If you want to change them it’s really nice on the PCB. Nice large pads, plenty of solder already on there plus it’s low temp melt solder. And the pads seem to be secured under a layer of PCB meaning less risk of lifting a pad.
Almost seems like they expect people to resolder their preference onto it. I wouldn’t try anything larger than 10awg though as I don’t think the heatsink will fit over 8awg
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The button is receiving full battery voltage for some reason, tested it myself
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thats funky. flipsky also did this with their older latching antisparks (maybe the momentary ones too, I never tested those)
What you got green? I just got white and now I’m ordering a green one from AliExpress. No idea it was RGB, mine’s only ever been white.
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Is it hardware or firmware fixed? Can a firmware update change it?
There is already a setting in vesc tool for this, why weren’t you able to integrate with that setting?
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No mounting pattern?
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Yea not sure why. Lots of CNC going on everywhere else.
I left my Stormcore heatsink on the board so it’s thermal taped to that. Not ideal, but working.
You can use the four corner screw holes if you get the right length.
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Both hardware and software are fixed.
I’ve had a real hell of a time owning this D75 so far. No idea what I’m doing wrong here.
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I dropped it in to replace a DV6 Pro and soldered on the old phase wires.
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Had a hell of a time doing detection.
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After detection, one side kept being unresponsive after booting the board and I had to reboot the board a few times while riding to get both sides to spin.
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Setting up the remote has been complete hell as VESCtool keeps claiming both VESCs are different FW and gas trouble seeing both sides of this dual (scan CAN doesn’t always work)
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Just flashed new FW onto both sides of this D75 and now it refuses to detect motors. “Could not write motor configuration”
I’m fucking done with this thing. A brand new VESC shouldn’t be this difficult to get working.
Can’t be user error as I’ve checked for continuity and shorts on all of the phase wires, and re-flashed FW and gone through steps multiple times.
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did u flash in the bootloader before u flash in the firmware?
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The firmware page does that automatically it’s not an option. It only has “generic” loaded in the bootloader tab
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More weirdness, just rebooted, VESCtool only sees one VESC on CAN and then I just hit “detect all motors” and they both actually did something, got the message “cannot write motor configuration” then got detection results, which actually look correct.
Wtf is going on.
It works now even though I got errors and didn’t see what I should have seen, and this scares me, how do I know this won’t screw up halfway down a highway?
I’ve never had an ESC be so untrustworthy since my last replacement tenka
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