GGG Skateboard | Samsung 12s5p 30Q | Dual Turnigy 149kv | Dual FSESC6.6 | Belt Drive | MBS Board

Go-Go Gadget Skateboard, aka GGG skateboard. This is my first build. About 90% done, just a little bit of soldering and programming the ESC.

Nothing exotic here, just a standard MBS build. Big thanks to @Dirt_Bag for giving me a great deal on the battery.

Will post more pictures and impressions once I get it going. I am located in San Jose, CA. Looking for some help with setting up the ESC. Willing to show up with pizza. Can also offer CAD work and 3D printing in exchange for some help setting up the ESC. Trying to get this done for the race in SF next month.

Read a lot before this build on the forum. Thank you everyone for posting your knowledge.


I love the name of it! Post pictures when you can!

Did you try to drag & drop pics in your message ? It should work :wink:

Programming the ESC is really not that hard, especially with the new vesc tool! How I do it:

  1. Autoconnect to vesc
  2. Upgrade firmware if needed
  3. Run motor set-up wizzard
  4. Limit battery amps because they always get set too high and that’s dangerous! (in the motor -> general tab, make sure to hit the button to write the settings onto the vesc)
  5. Run input set-up wizzard
  6. :notes: Ride, tlll I can’t no more! :notes:

@BillGordon Can you please bump this gentleperson’s status?

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Will try that.

I am a mechanical person. Building the board is easy for me. Software wise, slightly intimidated. But I am sure you are right. Will give it a shot. Any suggestions on what initial settings to put for my set-up?

The drag and drop worked. Thanks.

Pictures are not that great.

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Depending on who / how you made your battery, that will determine your battery limits. Theoretically, if all wires are thick enough, your battery can do 100A discharge and 20A charge. 20A might not be enough for you, so many people here raise that to no more than 2x the rated spec just to have stronger brakes in emergencies. Remember that you have 2 ESCs, so each one should be set to half of that, so 50A discharge and 10A charge for battery settings.

(I’m assuming your battery has a charge only BMS / a discharge one that can handle the charging current. Please report back your exact specs to be sure)

Then, motor current depends on your pulley ratio and what torque you’re comfortable with. 30A per motor is what I used to use just so I wouldn’t get thrown off my board in traffic accidentally. Now I have a different ratio, and do 40A per motor. Breaking current can be the same for a predictable feel, or maybe a little bit higher (like +10A) again, for emergency reasons.

If you feel like those settings aren’t enough, then feel free to increase them, but around the 80A range per motor you are really pushing it and producing a lot of heat in the motors. If you feel like you need more for hills / wind, but don’t want to get thrown off by the acceleration, you can play around with ramping values. I have yet to do so myself so don’t have too much experience with it, but definitely plan to in the near future, because the settings I use on flat to be comfortable are definitely under-powered when I’m climbing extreme hills :smiley:

I think what you said makes sense. I downloaded the vesc tool last night. I will give it a shot. On my flipsky esc, do I need to solder or bridge anything? I just have power to battery with antispark and wires to both motors. I also have the received for the remote connected.

@Dirt_Bag can you chime in on the battery’s capabilities?

I should be ready to set up the vesc soon.

Battery is charge only BMS. I am running 12/72 gear ratio.

Its safe for 100a pretty easily. It can go higher, but it will run a little warmer than normal.

I don’t know what specific ESC you can have, but 50A battery max per ESC (per side if it’s dual) is definitely safe then (unless you have a super small one).

I have the Flipsky 6.6. Not sure if I need to bridge anything on the ecs before I start.

What should the cutoff voltage be? And what about Regen amps?


regen can be 20A safely, but feel free to increase it to up to 40 if you need more breaking power.

cutoff voltage I let the vesc tool choose for me, I enter my battery settings and click apply.

Running into all kinds of issues building this board. My original motor mounts did not work, so I just bought some Janux mounts. They fit a lot better but now the pinon will not line up due to the hole on the plate that mounts the motor is too small for the pinon to slid back far enough. I was recommended the Turnigy 149Kv motors. However feeling the this motor is giving me issues before I even use it. First did not realized it did not have a D-cut on the shaft. Now I think due to the missing D-cut, it limited the pinons that I was able to find to make it work. Now? Not sure what I should do to solve my issue. Make hole bigger on motor plate? Get new motor?

Really thinking about scrapping the whole project right now. Someone make me an offer. Can bring to the race next week in SF.

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Just reverse the motor pulley and file/dremel a flat spot on your motor shaft. Alternatively you could use some loctite 680 retaining compound and not worry about the grub screws. I would personally dremel a flat spot though. Be sure to bag the motors first so none of the metal filings get into the cans. Don’t give up brother you are so close.


Can you just add another aluminum spacer to make the wheel pulley line up with the motor pulley?

Can not reverse the motor pulley. It is designed in a way, that it will only fit one way. This build is already way over budget, but is there a better option for a motor?

Thanks for the suggestion.

Due to the cross bars, the motor plates are pretty much fixed. If I place the plate that bolts the motor on the inside, it will work. Only issue, the cross bar rods will not fit. They would need to be cut down the thickness of the motor plates.

thanks for the suggestion.

What do you mean? The collar can be on the outside. Explain why it won’t fit please man

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