I started this build thread on the builders forum, where my inital plan was just to switch deck and battery from my previous build. However I changed plans and will now be making a completely new build with my custom made battery.
The build focuses on two things. Comfort and reliablility. To achieve this I decided to go with a flexy deck and also well documented components to ensure it lasts.
Deck: Loaded vanguard
Motors: Dual 6354 from Flipsky
ESC: Dual 4.20 from Flipsky. Might switch to the plus version Focbox Unity
Battery:10s2p Samsung 25r 10s4p, still with the 25R cells.
Even though comfort was my no.1 priority, I did not want to go with pneumatics as I prefer the look and feel of urethane. For me, putting pneumatics on the board makes it not a longboard anymore. Rather a mountainboard. I chose the vanguard flex 3, because it is the flexiest deck for my weight. It also has some sort of legendary status amongst longboarders as a comfortable board. The nice enclosures designed to fit is a bonus as well.
I made two 5s2p packs using cell holders. This will add a bit of extra lenght to the battery, but it is not a problem since I only use 20 cells. I thought it would add extra stability and preventing the cells from rubbing eachother and creating a short.
Already this far into the building process I ran into problems. This was when I was programming the Flipsky dual 4.20 in the VESC tool. During the motor detection phase in FOC, the power from my battery suddenly cut off. This was another battery I have that uses a high discharge BMS. When I then powered it on again, the VESC started sparking and “poofing” while emitting some sort of blue strong light.
This completely fried my ESC and I am currently emailing Flipsky to see how we can resolve it. After consulting with other members on the forum. The problem is likely caused by me switching on or off the can bus switch while the ESC being powered on. Here are pictures after the accident:
One side is as burnt as a toast, while the other one looks seemingly okay. This will still probably go in the bin though, unless someone on the forum might want to buy it for really cheap or free.
I see the thread, but he seems to want to fit a 10s5p in an 12s4p enclosure. The battery in question is triple stacked, not double stacked. I will see when the enclosures gets here, which should be this week. If the battery does not fit, I will remove all the nickel, order this strip instead: https://eu.nkon.nl/1-meter-nikkel-batterijsoldeerstrip-25-5mm-0-15mm.html
I just got the enclosures delivered to my door by a lovely lady (Thanks DHL!) and from the side profile, nothing is showing. So I do not see the problem. What am I missing?
I will make a new battery, salvaging the cells from the other one since they have been unused. Will now do it in a double stack staggered config, to reduce the height of the pack.
Drivetrain assembled and escs programmed. This battery shown in the pic is not the one that will end up in the build. I am still waiting for some cells and nickel for me to be able to complete my battery build.
I’m not sure if you have to jump the flipsky one? Have a little poke around on search, people have done it.
At the very least replace the actual physical switch because the latch is really cheap and you’ll experience the joys of your board shutting off when you go over a bump and it unlatches the switch
That will work for a while but eventually the switch will die because it has no inrush protection, inevitably it will fail, usually open so you can still ride. Could be 2 miles, could be 2000 miles but it’ll go!
Couldnt really find anything on the forum about the jumping of the switch. I sent an email to flipsky asking if you can use the esc without plugging the switch in. Otherwise I might just have the switch turned on at all times, then turning on and off my other antispark switch that I have.
This could go round and round but perhaps do some looking into anti-sparks in general. The flipsky one with a new physical button will be equivalent to your other anti-spark most likely so no need to do that. Ride it for as long as possible and then deal with it if and when it fails! Just get a new button.
Sounds like a good idea. I might also look into the fatboy anti spark, which is the only one I know of that has pre charging. Otherwise I could switch to a high discharge bestech bms that has a built in switch.
