Ive always thought that overkill app was garbage, i’ve only ever used the xiaoxiang apps
Doubt you’ll get a fire, bms just won’t let you charge.
Has the vx4 ever given you the true board voltage?
Yes, up until today. I am fairly sure it was correct on my way to work? I didnt check to be sure tbh. If i were to switch the charge under temp cutoff to -30 i could in theory charge, id just have to keep an eye on overkill while doing so as to make sure nothing weird happens, or is that a terrible idea?
Unless you plan on charging in sub zero temperatures i cant see an issue with it
1 Like
Thank you sir much appreciated.
Do we think it poses any risk though?
Does anyone sell aluminum pulleys for kegel and Abec like boardnsmics used to have?
1 Like
I’d just do it cause why not. Easier to get a replacement from Amazon than anywhere else.
2 Likes
Has anyone done any real testing with Control Sample Mode: V0 and V7 Interpolation?
I’m especially interested in high electrical speeds, around 50–70k ERPM or more.
From the code, my understanding is that this mode does not add another current measurement. Instead, between the normal FOC updates it predicts the rotor angle from speed_est_fast, rotates the existing d/q voltage vector to the interpolated angle and updates the SVM/PWM again.
So the expected benefit should mainly be reduced voltage-vector angle/hold error at high ERPM, rather than better current measurement.
Has anyone compared V0 vs V0+V7 Interpolation and seen a noticeable difference in:
-
high-ERPM smoothness or stability
-
current ripple / Id error
-
observer stability
-
efficiency or motor temperature
-
maximum usable ERPM
I’m also interested in whether this mode gives a useful benefit on hardware with 3 low-side shunts but no true phase shunts, where real V0+V7 current sampling is not possible.
In settings near the bottom there are the ntc check boxes that turn on and off the temp sensors
1 Like
Does anyone know what country Apex had their trucks CNCd? Someone overseas wants to buy a set from me but I can’t find the country they were manufactured in for customs paperwork purposes.
1 Like
Hey kids.
Making a my little Omakase build with dual 6354 190kv
One is coming up sensor less.
Will it be best to run Sensored and rely on just the one side?
Or should I just go for silent HFI???
In my opinion, it would be better to run sensorless on both sides (yuck) or try HFI or sHFI on both sides.
What is the measured Lq-Ld difference as a percentage of total inductance of the motors? That would determine my next move.
To get that, in the VESC terminal for each motor, type measure_ind 0.2 for each motor. You will get something like this:
For that example, it would be 1.90μH / 15.04μH ≈ 0.126 which is 12.6% which isn’t great. If it’s over 10% HFI will probably work mostly, 15% to 20% it will probably work good, and if it’s over 25% it will probably work excellently.
1 Like
Installing a VX4 against my will and cannot get it to show any signs of life on the vesc side.
Are the steps not
- Confirm pin out on receiver and vesc
- Confirm baude rate
- Confirm the vesc connected is in uart mode (no vesc remote mode bc it’s an older vesc)
- Input wizard? There’s no option that seems to fit here.
Just give me a damn puck. The meaning of life could be on the remote display and I still don’t want one.
Nevermind the remote was locked by the customer when I wasn’t looking. SMH
4 Likes
I think it’s probably the same as the VX2 which I’ve used a few times, despite not liking the throttle curve that’s nearly impossible to tune around.
I don’t use the input wizard. If connecting with Bluetooth, I swap to the other can channel. Then set it in the app config.
To my surprise, the timeout value needs set in both channels of the app config. I’ve been setting that to 30ms since a broken pharmacy window incident. With the uart, it’s the vesc remote tab with the relevant throttle curve settings.
I think the vx4 has the option for ppm as well doesn’t it?
One of the sensors in my 2024 mach failed before I installed the ESD kit into it, so i’m running one side on hfi and the other side sensored.
Can’t remember what hfi mode i landed on but Liam and i just went through the options and found which one worked best without any tuning.
Apart from a slight ‘tick’ when i start from a stop, there is no other noticeable difference for me.
4 Likes
Oh I did not think I could do Sensored on one side and hfi on the other…
Oh well. Sensor wires have been chipped …
3 Likes
The kid I’m giving this board to lives in San Francisco… so sensors would have been ideal.
But I had to compromise on the motors… everything else on here is pretty Killer.
5 Likes
Check for settings within the remote itself. Iirc Flipsky always had 2 modes, FSESC and focbox or something.
2 Likes
I’ve also done sensorless / sensors, worked fine. Theory was, one motor with less starting torque was better than both losing it.
Eventually traced the cause back to my own poor quality workmanship. I assumingly had flux residue on the ESC that must’ve absorbed moisture and become conductive after replacing some of the dolphin’s integrated anti spark FET’s.
1 Like