I looked for that and did not see it… let me look again
If the motors are hot it can really affect HFI. Did you measure Ld-Lq? Some motors work way better than other ones.
You can type measure_ind 0.2 in the VESC Terminal.
No clue what this is.
Not sure what this is either…
Friendly reminder that I am basic…
But either way.
I flashed firmware, I ran detection. Upped motor amps. And that is it…
Oh. I did turn on smart reverse…
But yeah. I did the bare minimum.
Probably a good approach with the Vesc hole…
Please tell me you have a computer and aren’t doing this on your phone ![]()
Yeah it should start from standstill a lot better than regular HFI, especially on hills. If I ever stop caring about sensors I’ll swap to sHFI.
You know I’m all about the phone.
I thought Evan was his son?!?
Got the larger 3p enclosure for this thing.. using some of these new tabless cells would a 20s2p be enough to run 130kv 85’s at their limit? It’s just going to be a spare practice board so im not fussed with range. Keeping it light and perhaps squeezing the d100 in the enclosure would be a win.
Not sure what’s going on here but I’m thinking one of my brand new motors might be defective.
When powering the esc on, the left motor cogs and then stops, the button and esc start flashing red.
-Nothing is programmed, I was powering on to do so when it happened.
-the other motor does not do this.
-I hooked this motor up to each side of the esc, same result on each side.
-only the motor, hall sensor and power button are connected to the esc, no receiver.
Any direction would be appreciated, also, happy Father’s Day!
Before you run the motors, the VESC should be programmed properly. I am not an expert on VESC but I never run any motors until all the proper parameters are in place. Hopefully some more experienced VESC users can chime in.
Absolutely, didn’t run the motors though. This happens just powering on to program.
Something was wrong with the hall sensor. Powered up without it and no issue. Then, I had the great idea to plug it in and run detection. We’re Bbqing radium motor with a side of Stormcore for Father’s day! Motor windings are absolutely cooked now and so is the ESC. My own fault for being impatient. Hooray for DIY!
Tax return about to hit
Dualities are now on the horizon for this beezy
I might have the dumbest question in the world
But what is the difference between center set dualities, standard offset?
The axle position is different.
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Standard front hanger axle height is 60mm with 8mm forward offset (Max ground clearance, most similar to rkp height, recommended if using 125mm wheels) (It can also be flipped for lower height but not recommended since it pushes the axle far forward. 40mm axle height, 38mm forward)
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Centerset hanger is 50mm axle height and ~23mm forward offset. (recommended for 6-8 inch tires)
Basically if using 6-8” tires I’d get the centerset option. If you need compatibility with 125mm tires, I would get the standard offset.
Okay amazing thank you, Im looking for I think 240mm hangars both front and back w 12mm axles for my metroboard pathfinder. do you think I should go longer than that like 270?
I have this plan of making custom wheel spacers for landsurf hubs to run revskate tires and maybe I need extra axle length to do that
Could you tune your board better for sensorless to basically like it does have hall? Just wondering because mine don’t work at all.
You can tune it to work pretty good, but idk if you can 100% replace sensors if you want to do hard launches.
I’m not doing crazy hard launches. Just off from a stoplight I would caug like crazy sometimes even start going backwards. How would you tune it like that?
My 240mm hangers are amazing. But try and determine if you have the deck clearance for wheels (from wheel bite) at your maximum lean angle you think you’ll achieve.


