Hey! I do some esk8 related work in Denmark. Built a bunch of DIYs and easily 50+ batteries. A price range would be very helpful… Generally prebuilts are better value these days, and DIYs really shine when you have some specific requirements. Nowadays I’d only consider DIYing high end boards.
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Anyone ever have this happen?
Ran motor detection on a focbox unity. Using hoyt 6361 Burnside motors (10 pole, 180kv).
Only one side of the focbox showed up. However when I continued to set up the battery amps, motor amps, etc…both the local vesc and CAN vesc appear in vesc tool mobile.
I set up a uart remote and both wheels receive current and turn. With that said, for some reason the torque feels weak.
Current settings
Max Motor amps: 68
Max break amps: -68
Battery amps: 60
Regen: -15
When going up a hill it’s very noticeable. Torque isnt just weaker, but it’s almost non-existent and I can’t make it up a moderate incline hill.
Never run into this issue before so looking for some insight. I ran motor detection several more times and still only one side of the esc shows up.
Hey!
Thank you - I didnt wanted to make a too long post cus this is the DIY section and I was posting in the pre-build general Q discussion threat a more detailed list:
I was considering 2k - I would have a greater budget, but I am not seeing the value for me in some 3-4k board. Whats most important for me would be some tabless battery pack, gearbox, and no CFK Body with a hard battery pack → Meepo Hurricane Decks tend to break cus they are built stiff with the non-flex battery pack.
I like clear communications. If you list me the prices of the parts and tell me your fee ontop of it for building, I might consider. As mentioned, I could afford everything by budget, but I have to see sense in it. If you f.e. say a tabless battery pack rises the price by X amount than this is fine for me as long as I have some quality aspects fit.
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I’m having trouble with getting my flipsky vx1 remote to work after a firmware update pushed by the vesc tool on my storm core100d.
It was working previously on the old firmware now it’s not should I roll back to an old firmware or is there a step I’m missing? The input wizard does not react when I try to use it
Don’t believe the VESC Tool when it says you should update your firmware. It lies. If you need new firmware, you will know. A new version of it existing is not a reason. This is embedded firmware, not an operating system.
You were deceived and now all your motor detection settings and control settings are erased. You have to start all over again like it’s brand new.
Rolling back the firmware version will not bring back the erased settings.
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@b264 ok lol but like it’s too late. I’ll keep it in mind for the future. And the setup up until the input wizard went find. However once I get to the input wizard I don’t get a input from the controller despite saying that it is connected
New firmware versions should still be compatible with old hardware, but definitely accept that you gotta do a full setup from scratch. Also some of the cheaper ESC’s can shit themselves from running default settings on newer firmwares that didn’t exist on the firmware they shipped with.
I got mates who swear their whatever flipsky ESC’s can’t run newer firmware, but they can. Just gotta make sure the settings are all appropriate and not accidentally load the default settings. I always set motors one at a time, never use the wizard interface and I think that helps to not cock things up.
I think you need PPM with a VX1. I never remember which channel on any given ESC is associated with the PPM. If it’s not the first, then it’s the second. Don’t forget to do the PPM mapping too, with the remote on fast setting.
There’s a bunch of other settings I’d amend about now too, like fault recovery times etc.
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It’s irresponsible of them to suggest updating which sounds innocuous but actually will make your vehicle stop working, for nearly zero gain on your part. They could be a lot more clear about that, or not even suggest it at all like it’s routine. VESC Tool is not a consumer-grade interface, it’s for engineers. It gives you enough rope to hang yourself ten times over.
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Sounds good, we can definitely talk about it. I’m very busy for the next two weeks, but we can definitely make something happen early summer. I’ll try to find some time to throw together some preliminary parts list for you in a few days.
That’s gonna change relatively soon with me entering the game 
At least as far as modern specs go. Hard to do much about prices from Europe.
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I agree that this should be correct but will the app auto updating and mismatching with vesc be a problem?
First I’ve heard of auto-updating, is that a thing?
Thanks I’ll give it a go. I had no problem setting my motors up. But the controller wasn’t working for me. I tried doing the mapping on ppm but I wasn’t getting any inputs. It’s possible I didn’t have the right channel… I don’t remember changing that. And ditto on the fast setting, want aware of that.
Ya but it blew up on me so I don’t have a functioning one anymore. As far as I know its auto switching. It also comes with various power input plugs. On the bottom of it, it says “120-240v” so I think it’ll be fine
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Hello, does it make sense to shield the Hall sensor wires all the way to the board in the Reachertech 6395 motor? Currently, if I apply more than 130 phase current to the motors, the motors start jerking and the torque drops. This is because the Hall sensors lose track of the motor’s position. Is there any chance that the motors won’t twitch when the phase current is 170A after the cable is updated?
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Yes, it could definitely make sense to do that. Please let us know how it goes.
Alternatively, you could not use the sensors.
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What vesc do you have? Does it happen only when accelerating from a standstill? Have you tried hfi?
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Also a shielded cable needs a ground plane connection on ONE SIDE ONLY. If you land the shield ground on both ends it can make a ground loop as well as not effectively sink the interference.
also hall sensors are only used during the launch - 4000erpm. This means if you are having any issues above like 3mph it is not a hall sensor issue. Just throwing this out there because im not 100% clear on the symptoms you’re describing and many motors run at 100s of amps don’t have many recorded issues - also hfi and shfi are getting really good 
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Maybe so much current to the motor saturates it magnetically and will cause loss of positioning and cogging -like feeling.
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I was thinking this morning at school and was wondering if anybody’s tried camber on a board? I was thinking of prototyping something like this on my printer and if it works actually try it. This is kind what I was thinking. Then you would also be able to mount the motors on the angled truck part so you would have drive train issues. Obviously you would have less camber than this but this is the general idea.
EDIT: I wouldn’t be going much faster on this board than 15mph. It would kinda just be a project show board.
I don’t think the mechanics of a board correlate well to that of a car.
Under cornering, the weight transfers to the outside wheels in a car. Boards are more like bikes, in that the inside gets weighted up the most. I’m not convinced car handling has anything in common with riding a skateboard.
I’ve had cambered wheels due to bent axles. Putting aside drive belt misalignment, the only difference was the inside of the wheels wearing faster.
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