Gimme a break, I have to use my moms computer 
I donât think that thatâs the root of the problem, because no ble module or cord works.
I would advise not plugging that nrf51 into the 5v supply, I think they are 3.3v only.
VCC might be 3.3v, but you would have to carefully check with a multimeter.
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Yeah could you help me through wiring a bit, make sure itâs all lined up? Iâll grab pics of the receiver and better of the port.
Which Bluetooth receiver are you using?
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I have 2 metrs than need repair and then @A-damWâs custom module but I know it works.
Anyone have any idea where to find a reasonably priced 11s charger? I just now realized that if I donât take another cell group out of my battery then I wonât have a charger for it.
One group just fully died and the rest are healthy so I donât really want to downgrade to 10s until I can get a new battery in. I also would prefer not to chain two chargers together if it can be avoided.
You could likely use your 12S charger with a CC/CV buck/Step down converter on the output set to 46.2v.
I have a 500 watt unit with enough input output range for my needs
I probably would have bought this unit instead if i could go back in time.
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Iâll have to keep that in mind if using two power supplies doesnât work. It should theoretically work but I donât know what protections are or arent on the extra 10s charger I have.
Which even if it does work it isnât a great long term option for when I swap out the older battery, with 18650 cells, in my 2nd board with it.
I basically only Use CC/CV Boosters to charge with, from 12vdc nominal.
But, I will also Use the same boosters feeding on 5S or 7S batteries to charge 10S batteries when not at home.
I do always have an inline wattmeter on the output and set output voltage unloaded, and then plug to the depleted battery and then dial in my desired charge rate with current potentiometer.
Initially setting up these boosters as battery chargers requires being a bit more careful than that as some have potentiometers where turning trimpot CCW is increase and CW is decrease, and they might be set for super high current output from the factory and a big voltage delta can blow fuses or smoke components.
I recommend setting output voltage unloaded first and set it just above the 11S batteryâs rested discharged voltage then connect to 11S battery, and then fiddle with the current potentiometer until it starts lowering the output voltage, then disconnect battery, Then dial in max desired charge voltage unloaded, then reattach to 11s battery, then dial up the current potentiometer until you reach desired charge rate, upto about 90% of the maximum of your power supplyâs max output.
The boosters are limited by their input amperage spec so I will often use an inline wattmeter on input side until I figure out the limitations of the booster at certain input voltages..
I do not do too much Bucker charging. My 12vDC nominal system is set for lead acid AGMS being held at 13.6v so When I charge 3s liion I need to go no higher than 12.6v.
My bigger buckers are basically for discharging 10S esk8 batteries when I could not use the skate to discharge them, or in case of emergency use the 10S esk8 battery to power 12v fans or LEDs.
If I fear I will forget to remove it when battery is full, I set it to 4.1 volts per cell and do some quick math in my head and set the timer on my phone.
I recommend getting some Bourns H90 trimpot potentiometer screwdrivers if going this route.
Much easier and safer than using a regular jewelerâs screwdriver to dial in output voltage and current.
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My concern about using that type of setup is that somehow my cats will find a way to bump something just enough to change a setting. Or theyâll randomly decide to try and chew on an exposed circuit board for the first ones you linked.
They typically know better and donât chew on things they shouldnât, but sometimes they decide to do dumb shit.
I do appreciate all the information for some less conventional solutions. I didnât even think about trying step up or down converters.
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Good to be cautious.
I have thought about covering my boosters or buckers, and if I had a 3dp or CAD skills would probably have enclosed them with a fan and switched to finger twist potentiometers.
My first prebuilt esk8s were 7s junk and came with âchargersâ that were 30.2v or higher open circuit, when 7s is max charge voltage 29.4v, So I used XL4015 CC/CV buckers to dial them down to 29.4v.
The âchargerâsâ red light turned green when amps tapered from 0.32 to 0.31 but they would just hold the battery at 30.2v as long as it was connected to charger and amps would taper to 0.00x, and overcharge them.
One of the 7s batteryâs BMS has a voltage dropping Diode so 30.20v was more like a max of 29.6v reaching the cells when amps tapered super low, but that is still too high. It was basically reliant on the BMS high voltage disconnect, but that was often not triggered.
The other 7s battery did not have the diode and the provided charger would happily take it to and keep it at 30.2v, without the inline XL4015 Bucker limiting it to 29.4v max
Since these âchargersâ were only capable of 40 watts, I just started using Boosters set to the proper max charge voltage and never looked back.
I do not own an AC/DC 10S plug in charger.
I have a booster powered up right now set for 41.45v and 2.5 amps max, and another set for 29.19v and 0.24 amps max, as battery will not be used again until tomorrow.
I might bump them upto 42 and 29.4v and top them up an hour before rolling, or I might not.
Not being able to set output voltage or Amperage is intolerable to me, and Li-ion chargers which allow for this are outside my budget, especially considering I already have a good adjustable solution that has proven reliable.
Hope you find a solution which works for you.
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Iâve got a fancy ass resin 3d printer I got for free, but the screen /light bit of it needs fixing still. I was working on it but had to stop to fix my board. If the LED panel is fully broken itâll cost $200 for a new one.
I knew it needed repairs when I was given it though. There are more things I havenât tested to see if it is actually broken or if a connection is loose. So I have a printer but it isnât fully working 
I also have no resin that works for it but I donât need that to test the panel thankfully. If I did then I would have taken It apart and sold the parts.
I only want adjustable voltage. I prefer slow charging batteries since my boards are my only form of transportation. Slower charging =longer battery life.
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Hey, pretty sure Iâve got a weird 11s charger you can have. Iâll check tomorrow.
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Very noob and quick question: which way should I orient the Hotas tires? I checked the Fluxmotion website but found conflicting info:
Is the orientation of the left tire in the photo correct?
Wild guess, no: it is the right tire that is mounted correctly. In this way, the tip of the âVâ that hits the ground first sheds the rain outwards. Is this reasoning correct?
It doesnât really matter, but Iâve always mounted them like the tire on the right.
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Im surprised that it even exists at all in the common charger form factor at all. I replied to your dm about it.
Sorry the reply is late but the site wouldnât work for me due to https errors. It only works in incognito mode right now. 
Haha, I was also surprised a 11s charger was ever manufactured.
Forum access has been tricky for me the past day or so⌠running into authentication errors using chrome browser.
I will get the charger shipped out tomorrow. 
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It is a random https issue and for some reason chrome only lets you ignore the warning in incognito mode. You have to hit âadvancedââ for the âproceed â option to pop up.
It never pops up in normal mode𤡠which is dumb bc incognito mode doesnt protect you at all