Even with 0.2mm stator laminations? Thought that core losses at high frequency were significantly better as motors moved to thinner laminations…
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Drone motors are down to 0.15mm lamination stacks, though I haven’t seen any motors use that size above ~26mm cans
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DAYUM! Anything in the non-watercooled 60-80mm spec?
Not that I could find
10 inch tires are nice. Running them currently on stooge open gears for 6:1 ratio. I’m looking into the jump drive as replacement in 5.5:1 ratio… I’m currently using 3d printed wheels. What wheels were you thinking of using?
There’s a number of nice hubs that are 6" and take 10x6 scooter and go-kart tires. Was going to look into that and if needed add my own mounting/adapter plates. I have access to CNC equipment and a large lathe, mill, rotary table, etc…
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Maaaannnnnn I wish haha
Nice, better solution than 3d printed… For tires I found these to be pretty good in that size.
US $6.58 40%OFF | High Performance 10x2.50 Inner Outer Tire 10 Inch Thickening Tyre for Electric Scooter Balance Drive Bicycle Parts
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lol why you looking to buy then? is it a cost thing?
not on the pinion there ain’t enough meat there dude. obviously you can just grab bigger gears and machine then but that’s not re-boring the existing gears.
dude just machine your own to your needs. i did one with a hacksaw, drill and 2x72 belt grinder
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This. Put all those tools to work!
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Not enough time, still want to live my life, and cutting helical gears on a CNC is a royal PITA. Especially in any sort of appreciably hard steel. I need bigger equipment with CNC control to get good surface finish on such things. My CNC mill and router are tiny, and while the mill could do it, I’d need to add a power rotary table to the mix. Since this isn’t my job, I’d rather pay people who have already done the R&D for their time. Going forward, I may end up being forced to go that route, but I’d like to avoid that if possible for the short-term.
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0.15mm is rare, but here is an 80100 with that
Ant Innovation Technology Co., Ltd.
Ant Innovation AT 83100 9.5kw Brushless Motor with Watercooling System
The new design 83100 Brushless Motor with Watercooling System for Electric Jetboard. The stator is made of 0.15 Kawasaki silicon steel by special process. Improve power and torque. Reduce heat generation. The efficiency is greatly…
Price: USD 229.90
They’ll sell u the motor in parts and u can skip the Watercooling hub. Replace it with another hub. I have a hub version u can get made w giant bearings and good thermal mass.
This is the best motor available in this size with this nice lams.
I got three in parts. U want to use it on a board or what?
It shrinks the length down considerably if you swap out the hub n Watercooling tubing.
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potentially, though if the copper fill is lower than Reacher 6385 V5’s (already ordered a pair) I’m not sure it’ll compensate for the larger diameter and actually add torque.
On the other side of the spectrum, I’ve seen at least one build using SSS 56123 230KV motors. Takes super high current, but these seem to handle a hell of a lot of power. Just not at all familiar with the inrunners and what sort of torque they are capable of, especially at low RPM.
@MoeStooge often does inrunners and a big gear reduction and pretty ideal in terms of efficiency and torque ability I think but I don’t really know
Side note - Reacher has an 8mm shaft option for the 6385 V5’s and I managed to reach Moon soon enough to change my order from 9T/10mm to 8T/8mm pinions.
I had an early beta of the first batch of helical moon gears and one of the motor pinion gears wasn’t properly keyway broached to full depth; luckily already have a 3mm keyway broach set so 10 minutes later I was able to mount the gear.
@Evwan what was your factory defect?
Gears were wobbly. They’re getting replaced.
Oof, concentricity issues suck. One of my gears might have been off a tiny bit as well, but it wasn’t enough to matter in my use-case. I just had to set backlash with the tightest side of the gear in contact. I’d personally advise whoever does the machining for Moon to cut the gear teeth, then chuck into a collet to center-drill in a lathe rather than bore and then cut the teeth. Solves 90% of the concentricity problems you might manifest that way.
@moon (in case that’s at all helpful for you or your machine shop)
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