I built it up with the deck intact, it was comically tall with the 8in tires DKPs. So I went for the gusto with the saw and DD brackets.
The deck is stiff as hell, brackets are designed to, and do, flex. Its an interesting feel just jouncing my weight on the board. I think this combo will soak up bumps quite well. I’m fully aware of the weakness of DKP at speed, but have tamed it with the hydraulic damper successfully on the other Evolve board… Stable at 27mph, which is plenty for me. The motors are only secured by 2 screws until the DickyHo 63mm plates arrive, so I’m not so eager for a test ride yet. No room on the Evolve motor plates, with 63mm motors, for the stabilizer stud, so that has to wait for the new plates too. Bat is a used no-bms 10S 10Ah Lipo from a carbon GT. I hioe gets me at least 10mi. (
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Do these brackets allow a 35° adjustment? Thinking about whether these could be used to mount channel trucks such as matrix ii’s on a standard deck.
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Nah, -22 I think is the furthest they go. and most of them are closer to +/- 15.
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+14ish positive -22ish negative
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Dernit
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Love this
The adjustment range is indeed +/- 15deg, so no go as a way to mount channel trucks unless you’re adding 15deg some other way. If you took advantage of the 7deg angle on the bottom of the mount plate, and added 7deg wedges, that gets you another 15deg, but 15deg is a LOT of angle on the fasteners… So long as you’re using washers ground at the appropriate angle (so the seats of all fasteners are square,) have ovaled out the holes in the deck to allow this much skew, it should physically work, but would be super sketchy.
$200 buys a LOT of new deck, even a Trampa. I was willing to blow $200 (total) on this deck/bracket combo. If I had to spend an additional $200 for E-Toxx adjustable baseplates, that’s $400 without any trucks. While the Etoxx baseplates are shorter than the stock MBS metal baseplates, they are still pretty tall, take away some of the drop the brackets create… Just not a good mix IMHO.
I’ve ridden both MBS Metal Matrix II and DKP this season, and aside from the stability offered by the 3in wider track, I like them equally. If I wanted a wider track, I’d spend on wider hangers for this build (from the knock-off Evolve trucks.)
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I have a hummie (which hasnlt arrived yet), and have some Bombs lying arounf from a build that didn’t work. Ive been mentally toying with idea of lopping off the parts that you did and trying to mount them on the hummie…but i think the enclosure space would get in the way.
Not a real great idea, but possible i think.
The hummie has a drop itself and the battery slot is indeed till that drop so it will be hard to mount.
But you could route out that wall maybe if its strong enough and countersink the brackets.
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You’ll lose some space inside the enclosure, but it would look cool to notch it for the brackets. That way the entire bottom of the deck is uniform depth. (My enclosure is about the same depth as the thickness of the brackets.)
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I’ve gotta say that my choice to build this had more to do with aesthetics and a low deck height than any sort of performance goal. Every board I’ve bought / made or ridden for more than a few minutes has been STIFF. I didn’t like the feel of a flexy deck (Loaded / Boosted etc) but this flavor of flex feels good. The new/interesting feel is just a bonus for me.
Hopefully I’ll have some skating impressions this weekend. There’s one last group ride this Sunday, and I’ve offered to bring 2 spare boards, this being one. One of the boardless guys had the Stormcore ESC let out the magic smoke inside his Lacroix Lonestar. Pics are UGLY. They are treating him right, sending a replacement, but it won’t be here in time.
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I feel like this is a re-occuring theme, did the boards owner / lacroix figure out what killed it?
yours seemed a fairly straightward operation, mine would almost certainly not work unless i made some clever (i.e labour intensive) changes to the deck. I know the hummie is a stiff deck and ive ridden a stiff board with the gbmobs and it feels great; a softer, bouncier feel. the gbombs will just have to wait i guess, i think the spud/tayto’s are great for them but they’re out of print…(also im broke)
My battery is already super tight so there really isn’t a viable way , if i planned to copy emaxon’s neutering approach…though i will of course see whats possible once the deck arrives lol. The sunk brackets isn’t a terrible idea, though my fear is it would compromise the strength of the deck
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I presume he’s sending the board back to them for inspection. I’ve seen photos, and it looks like the FET nearest the corner where the phase wires exit fried first. It’s so blackened by soot I can’t really tell what shorted to cause it. It is entirely possible that the FET itself fried, w/o any actual short. N-Channel FETs fry as a CLOSED circuit. (Happened with one of the FETs driving a direct injection fuel injector on my car… flooded the cylinder with gas.) This would instantly draw huge current through the rest of the power circuitry for that phase, taking other components out along the way. I hope they get to the bottom of it.
Since even the high $ stuff fails spectacularly, I’m sticking with value choices for now.
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Okay, I could only find 1in nylon spacers locally, and gawd awful ungraded screws, so this isn’t final. I’ll end up ordering 1/2 OD x 3/4 long x .194 ID (for #10-32 screws) spacers and using alloy steel 10-32 x 2in socket head cap screws. The 1in OD stainless fender washers worked great. I’ll find a way to blacken them and use them instead of a plate on top.
I will scrape the enclosure over speed bumps like this, and maybe even in a sharp turn if I hit a bump. Adding 1/4in by using the shorter spacers would be as low as I’d ever want to go. This may be fun for smooth paths, may be too low.
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Well, I “finished” it, took it for a brief shakedown skate around my neighborhood. Since last photos I installed thr DickyHo 63mm plates, (I drilled and tapped an M6 threaded hole for the stabilizer in one) cross plate and a much lighter solution for the top stabilizer mount. I’m using a 60mm + 30mm M8 socket head screws + a coupler nut, 2x 608 bearings and a pair of aluminum 7/8in (22mm) handlebar clamps. The battery case hides an ugly & tired 10S1P carbon GT pack, 35A dumb BMS and a flipsky anti-spark switch. The gray ESC box is a plastic outdoor outlet cover + a painted steel blank cover plate. (The idea was to use it as a secondaet heatsink… The Heatsink on the bottom of the ESC sits on it.) I’m using a VX2 remote + receiver, flipsky’s cheapie BLE adapter. Phase wires need to be tidied and secured, but I’m pretty happy with the way it looks and skates. The brackets soak up bumps nicely, it carves quite easily. I was skating by flashlight in 40deg weather, topped out at around 18mph. Runs 27mph on the bench with 200mm tires, 12/66t pulleys, 190kv motors. Questions? Comments?
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How much stress do these brackets place on a deck when mounted as intended (underneath the board)?
Do you think it will be an issue long term?
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Very good question. I wonder how much more mechanical stress an ESK8 encounters compared to a normal skateboard. I guess a specially made deck and bracket could be overbuilt to handle any stress an ESK8 may encounter.