Voltage: 12V-75V (peak voltage should be less than 80V, 16S safely)
Reminder: Although the MOSFET SPEC IS 100V, you still can’t use ubox v2-J at 100V, due to other parts spec being less than 100V. It’s far more safe to use this product under 75V.
At 18S you can blow components with an unlucky voltage spike, be prepared.
Afaik the ubox uses 85v components so he should be fine. Ernesto ran ubox v2s on 18s when the XLR first came out and none blew.
the blown one took the owner with it, we probably didn’t know
I prefer tube/valve amplifiers. Hard to beat a good ol kranked 5150.
Probably most parts are 100V rated, but the INA240 shunt amplifier can’t go that high.
This is why the 100V devices like the 100/250 have low side shunts as with low side shunts input voltage doesn’t matter. With phase shunts the amplifiers see the full input voltage though + some spikes.
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina240.pdf?ts=1662186644295&ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F
The U-box uses INA240 and phase shunts. There is also not really an alternative better part available today. So the choice to use the INA240 is a good one.
However, you always need some voltage headroom for the shunt amplifiers on such designs. Operating them at 80V input would not be a good idea. There is always some voltage ripple and performance at the edge will also not be quite as good as good bit below that. 16S is ideal for the INA240 in a phase shunt design. 72V (8V below 80V the INA240 absolute max) is also a good choice for the FW limits.
With 18S (75.xV fully charged) there is only around 4 volts of headroom.
How good the system works that close to the limits depends a lot on the cable length, motor etc.
At 18S I would personally tend to go for low side shunts design wise.
Performance wise the 18S system will have the disadvantage of the 100V FETs with less performance.
Going down to 16S would allow the use of 75V FETs with around 30% less resistance and therefore higher performance. This would enhance the overall performance of the system way more than going up 2S in voltage,as there is hardly any difference efficiency wise going a bit further up voltage wise.
In general 12S,16S or 18S make very little difference for an e-skate since we don’t have to deal with very long and thin wires like bicycles have (low KV hub motors and thin cables through motor shafts etc.)
System wise 12S,16S and 22S make the most sense as you can always max out the Mosfet voltage range and compensate amps for voltage. If you hop in between these voltages you get a disadvantage, since you don’t make use of the available voltage while dealing with the higher resistance of the higher voltage FETs.
I prefer the Mesa Boogie Rectifier Dual.
hi everyone, if there a way to activate the ‘‘time out brake current’’ with a uart remote? it seem only work for ppm or adc , and its not safe at all if i loose connection with my remote , i remember
i was aslso able to set my motors to regen if the battery was disconnected with the ackmaniac software
The problem about time out brake is that it catches you unprepared. Your board would go from acceleration to brakes without warning. That can easily throw you off. Personally I would like to see a ramping option for this feature.
Regeneration when the battery is not connected will certainly kill your ESC as the energy has nowhere to go and a huge voltage spike would be the outcome.
i ride my boards with 2 bindinds since 5 years i never fall off my board , if you set the current low (10-15A) it will not throw you off the board , i weight 200 pounds and never fall from my MTB
i prefer kill my vesc than me !!!
With no battery, your ESC will only be able to sustain braking for a fraction of a second before blowing up. Nowhere near enough to save you.
With a braking resistor you can overcome this limitation by burning off the extra energy as heat, instead of charging a battery with it.
i mean power cut from a remote going to lose connection
i try to set time out brake current but nothing happen when i close the remote
That setting only matters if you lose the communication between receiver and esc. Not between remote and receiver.
also no failsafe on this shity remote , i hate uart , i really think am going back to my old ppm remote ,simple and reliable with failsafe you never know when the remote will die or battery suddenly die or if i lose signal of the remote at 40mph!! ? its like going on highway with a car with no functionnal handbrake ,
You use a handbrake on the highway? 
@longhairedboy requesting we change @celica40’s title to “Baby Driver”
my answer is yes!! as been drifitng car in snow since 30 and ice car racing also 
and also my car is a outback
Your receiver probably keeps sending the last known command. How should the esc know that the receiver lost connection to the remote?
With UART that’s different, as you have a two way communication. So the ESC can know about connection issues. With PPM that’s not the case.
Some PPM receivers act in a certain way, others in another. Preferably those receivers would stop sending the last signal after a connection loss.
Maybe it’s just the remotes I’ve used, but I’ve never had a remote signal loss where the receiver kept sending throttle commands when the remote disconnected. At least not since the Maytech v1 remotes with cruise control which also had other problems. Seems like you just go into a free roll when it happens.
Which remote receivers do this? They should be blacklisted.
I’m pretty sure my vx1 receiver does this when I have the remote turned off.
If I have an esc with the receiver connected, It receives ~0% throttle and the APP realitime data is alive
whereas an esc without receiver connected the realtime data is always frozen.
you’re talking about when the receiver disconnects from the ESC, I was talking about when the receiver disconnects from the remote.
