šŸ”„ Freefly Arc200

Sorry , I not have Arc 200

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@Andy87 is was @Kug3lis that got the beta units, along with me and @longhairedboy.

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A 12s Quad Vesc based esc’s are at best struggling to perform on a level with an 8s dual Inrunner on RC/esc’s.
For less money of even a dual arc setup you could have 12kw of actual power on 400kv inrunners on 8s.

Reliability first. Zero esc failures in two years running 45+mph uphill multiple miles at a time with esc temps maxing at 140f/115c, motors cool to the touch.

Tunability and Data logging. It’s all there. Ripple, Wt hr, Amp, speed, temp throt, brake volt , Make it creep or make it kick. Set-up your throttle /brakes on a progressive graph.

Brakes in the D-Hill are the best part. Fully tunable and will take all you can give them.

Over E-rpm down hill DRV pop, what’s that? Overcharging regen bms pop, nope?
Yep its RC. Performance and street-face value, much better than Maypop Vesc based tech currently available, and way more user friendly.

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I know but he said he might want to use them for his dads board, so I thought to tag both just in case

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I’d love to see a thread that talks about this in more detail.
Ive always wondered why you run 8s and rc stuff and everyone is trying to push 12s or higher on vesc.
I’d like to know the advantages of both, and disadvantages

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Can you do a build log on one of yours? I am not doubting you, my personal experience with R/C ESC’s has not been good. Lot’s of failures and performance was not on par with VESC’s. I’m sure I was using the wrong gear, but I honestly have no idea what the right gear is.

Back on topic…the premise of the topic is ā€œWhy aren’t more people using these for eMTB’s with all the amperage you can throw with Arc200’sā€.

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I got you, I’m just not sure that @3DServisas is very English savy so I thought I would clear it up. I am interested in what @Kug3lis has to say.

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Honestly, and without any ā€œoh yeah, let’s see itā€ bullshit, I would like to see an exploration into this. If we’re overlooking a great option simply because it doesn’t fit this or that mold, that’s a shame.

@MoeStooge: any chance you’d be down to share more via a build thread or other means? If there’s secret sauce to it that you aren’t free to divulge, no worries. But I bet a lot of people would be interested to see something like this.

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One more question:

How is ā€ždual escā€œ realized? Via split ppm or CAN or something else?

And one more :sweat_smile:
The arc200 has his one connector types which don’t fit our jst stuff we use usually. Do they come with adapter, i mean just the other side of the plugs you can thsn crimp solder your own stuff on. Or do you need to source that by your own? If by your own, could you share the name/type of the plugs they use?

It’s in progress. I’m waiting on motor mounts to migrate heXL’s on my Caldera, this is the deck that has a 12s4p 30Q pack and dual Arc200’s. Im gonna get about 300 miles constant usage over a few days and then I’ll be back with my impressions.

After that, and I’ve already started sourcing parts, I’m going to build a full-on eMTB using the Arc200’s. I think that is where they will really shine.

I’ll do a build log on each and a setup/software tutorial as well.

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I did a poor job on my reply. I meant this for what Moe posted.

But since I’m a greedy turd, both explorations would be excellent.

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Both are supported. I am running split-PPM because I don’t have the can cable. I have had zero issues using split-PPM.

I didn’t, but you can cut the connectors and solder on whatever you want. There are wiring diagrams in abundance at the Freefly Wiki .(https://freeflysystems.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/FRP/pages/269844541/Wiring+Arc200)

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For anyone looking, I added links to Arc200 resources at the bottom of the initial post.

Here’s a illustration of the pinouts,does that help?

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totally! Everything clear now.

I hope you don’t mind if I go one with questions :sweat_smile: just came in my head…
If you run dual, do they support traction control than?

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Don’t mind a bit. I don’t remember if traction control is possible or not, I’ll check though.

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My problem this particular controller is both price and compatibility. I’ve pretty heavily invested into Metr and moving away from it is pretty hard at this point.

It’s really great that it can support such high amps but how often do we find ourselves needing it let alone running huge lipo packs that can actually drive those currents. Sure if you are spec hunting or racing and want to drive massive currents to huge motors then this is the controller for you. If they made a scaled back version with 50% of the current rating and cost there would be a lot more interest. Not to mention that it only supports 12s anyway. Personally instead of pushing more current I would rather move to 13s; But hey thats just me.

I’m not saying in any way that this is a bad product. More that it’s specced and priced for different uses. Just because it exceeds the requirements, it doesn’t always make it the best choice.

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@mmaner I have tried several times afterwards but I couldn’t managed to configure them for my big 80100 motors to run smoothly I always was getting strange braking or acceleration things happening which are unpredictable. When I get smaller motors I will try again.

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This would be perfect for a E dirtsurfer build I had in mind. May consider it for that purpose but it’s way to big for me to consider it for esk8. I need every mm of space.

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  • UI was terrible, too much math on the user’s end and not enough clarification on what did what, and the automatic spin up motor detection stuff didn’t work right at all. way to much learning curve here. I feel like you need an engineering degree or a background in electro-magnetic math or something.
  • hardware was durable and reliable, it took us several months to finally get one to burn up. we primarily used them with SK3s but also with my motors and with some larger brother hobby motors.
  • making your own sensor adapters suck. They just send us bare leads with a freefly connector on one end.
  • dangling a spaghetti pile of connectors out of your hardware kind of sucks, things should be detachable at least.
  • they deliver power like nobody’s business and do it with true sinewave foc, not simulated sinewave like VESCs and other controllers. They’re stupid quiet on any motor. They can tolerate racing conditions very well and would have been totally ideal for that except for the shitty UI.
  • we never got the sensors working right but the way they do the FOC you don’t even need them. The SK3s were behaving as if they had sensors when they didn’t. We were roasting urethane from a standstill.
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