My Grandpa blows glass and I asked if he had any frit. He said he would never use black so I got these to try out!
I’m guessing this is only enough for maybe one deck. Now to read about what adhesive to use…
Here’s my 3rd frit deck, pretty happy with the results.
Kaly Xl 2.0+ carbon fiber deck.
I wanted to put a little color into my build so I got some testors model paint and layed out a design.
Ended up using a purple color that ended up maroon, had to repeat with a blue top coat to get the purple color I wanted
Then came layer after layer of water based spar urethane. after 10 layers of urethane I started adding the frit.
Then more spar urethane. I found using a foam roller was the best way to lay on the urethane. Way less sanding between coats. here is the final product. Im happy with it. Plus in the sunlight it reflects a bunch of colors
Didn’t like how frit can ruin the look of artwork. Thought it would be a shame to cover her pretty face in pimples. Masked it up with tape. Worked out well I think. Wasn’t sure if the fine frit was going to be grip enough. So used a coarser version for the edge. It doesn’t stand out as much I think.
I had a crack at this a couple of weeks back. I thought I’d share some photos and my experiences in case it helps.
Inspired by my favourite socks, I knocked up a design in Photoshop and had it printed on a light polyester satin. Made a few back-ups on the same print since I figured I wasn’t going to get it right first time. I really like the fact that the wood grain shows through this fabric. Being lightweight, it’s super easy to work with too.
Sanded down my old Evolve BGT deck and applied the first layer of epoxy. You can already see my first problem here. This is what’s called ‘fish-eyeing’, where the epoxy pulls away from the surface. This is bad.
and it leads to ‘bubbles’ where the fabric isn’t held down onto the surface of the deck and just lifts.
Here’s the first lesson learned: you gotta degrease your surface thoroughly. This was a freshly sanded deck so I figured I wouldn’t need to. Well, you need to.
Next lesson was air bubbles generally. It’s inevitable that you’re going to get air bubbles in the epoxy mix. You probably won’t even be able to see most of them but they’re going to fuck up your finish and surface quality. So after refining my technique over the course of about 5 layers in the end, here’s what I can tell you worked for me:
- Mix the 2-part epoxy thoroughly and then leave it somewhere warm for about an hour.
This helped the air bubbles come out and it got the mix to a thicker consistency which was easier to apply and was less prone to fish-eyeing. I was using a slow-cure epoxy so you might need to moderate that duration based on whatever you’re using. - After applying the layer (brush seemed to work better than a foam roller btw), blast it with a heat gun. This apparently brings out the microscopic air bubbles left trapped in the mix. I was really surprised at what this did for the quality of the finish. I noticed though that if I did this without leaving the mix for an hour beforehand, it was far more prone to fish-eyeing as I did so.
So then came the slow process of adding the frit.
I finished it up by wet sanding with a 600 grit and then polishing… but 600 grit is nowhere near fine enough. You’d have to go way higher if you wanna proper mirror-like finish. Mine’s still got swirl marks after going over it with a buffer and polish. I’m still really pleased with the result though.
Very nice design!
You probably didn’t get all of the original varnish off the board.
I warm up the epoxy with a heat gun and swirl it in the pot which seems to bring most of the bubbles to surface. Then using the heat gun on top to pop them swirl and repeat. I don’t remember cleaning down the surface with prep wash but it’s a good idea.
600 grit is normal for keying a surface prior to painting. Prior to polish I would use 1500 to 2000 grit or specific scotch pads red to grey. I didn’t bother with that tho. The frit leaves a rough surface behind anyway.
How do.you buff over the frit? Doesnt the buffing pad just get snagged on the glass?
I used a drill-bit buffing wheel. Yes, it’s a one-hit job. It got completely torn to shreds …but it worked like charm! 
I should’ve taken a photo of the aftermath. My garage was all spattered with polish and with all the fluff from the buffing wheel, it looked like a fox had got in the hen house!
good to know, i’ll have to try it out.
Still losing frit on the reg? Trying to make plans for the baby evo I’m doing and remembered you weren’t super happy with it’s durability.
Yeah I’ve definitely lost some of the bigger medium frit chunks. The fine frit looks like it’ll do a better job. Won’t slice my hands or car up either.
It will last a lifetime if it’s applied right 
Thanks for the update. Getting my ducks in a row.
I can’t imagine I’ll apply right this first time. Lol
If you follow the guide it is pretty issue. If you think you added to much wait till it dries and brush it off with a Chip brush.