Following in The Steps of Carvon

First I stripped the heat shrink/wire covering and carefully flayed out and splayed the wire so I could get at each individual strand of motor wire…

Then used a cigar lighter type butane torch, you can visually see the enamel burning off and the copper change color… this only took a brief second or two…

Then used fine wire brush from a standard dremel tool, I laid each strand on my thumb-nail and following rotation of the tool fired up the dremel on it’s lowest speed and with only very light pressure spun the wire brush towards the blunt end of the wire so the spin of the wire brush tended to straighten and lengthen the wire strand.

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Be careful I think he lost a leg to these things

AFAIK he modded SK3 motors, no rewind? But not absolutely sure for the v4…

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Likely… I don’t know the complete history of Carvon, he came and ghosted us before I got into esk8, and I have no idea what an SK3 looks like internally, but there is an awful lot of shims and adapter-like bushings in this motor… The motor does look machine-wound vs. Hand wound however… Id like to get a peek at the internals of an SK3… It may yield spare parts or a method to produce more… Any idea what the Kv of an SK3 is?

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image

All the motors we use, unless there’s a disconnect from the driven wheel by a freewheel or something so it will coast, are potentially leg removing if not worse when the motor shorts from abuse or even enough hours of even regular use. When a motor shorts within a single coil the motor will be destroyed but you’ll count yourself lucky because if it shorts across coils or phases it’s equivalent to slamming on your brakes. This is possibly deadly. Luckily you can wind any motor doing every other tooth instead of every tooth as usual and it won’t be able to possibly short across coils and it’s even A BETTER MOTOR electrically. It has a better magnetic circuit (winding factor) and in my experience and others you can get more wire on, both amounting to better efficiency and less heat.

I don’t know the details on how motor manufacturers for vehicles take care to make sure a cross phase shorting doesn’t happen or what other safety measures are there to make sure the brakes aren’t surprisingly slammed on but in our case that’s how it will go. I’ve had even what I believe was a short within a single winding and was launched from high speed. The motor still ran but badly and I rode home slowly.
All motor magnet wire is rated to sustain a certain temp for 20,000 hours, that’s the standard. I don’t know what the wire rating is with the common rc motors we use but the cost of wire increases a lot as you go past 200c wire. (I’ll be using 240c rated stuff going forward).
Jason of grin tech and owner of endless sphere has testing on ES registering the temp, with temp sensors, of different places within a motor and it will be potentially much higher than what is on the case or even the edge of the windings.
We drive motors very hard pushing them to temps higher than likely any other use. I’m freaked by the risks but it’s possible to wind LRK, fix everything inside solidly and add further insulation on any wires of separate phases that cross. You can virtually guarantee no cross-phase shorting by doing this.

And now I ask you my fellow Americans… or no I mean skaters… retire those super roasted outrunners, wind again, and we will ride up stronger than before! (Watching the impeachment)
(found my old motor in google search which had too much winding to fit) …and just heard from the mouth of MWS wire u can extremely shape magnet wire after the enamel is already on and the manufactures shape a lot of the wire after it’s on: you can press the sides of the stator flattening the end turns to make it fit if needed.

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For science Carvon V4 (???) Measurement:


External Can: 61mm dia. X 61mm long.



Internal can: 56mm 14 curved magnets.


Stator: 50mm dia x 36mm long 12 teeth

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Kinda bummed… But it is what it is… I got the new motor bearings today and started work on the other motor…

The motor end can bearing seat is oblong and out of round by .1mm, my guess is that riding this with fucked bearings caused the bearing seat to oblong…

Considering options but I think at first I’ll just put the motor back together and see just how badly the motor rocks on that side…

Definitely not stoked!

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just ordered this board for this little grocery getter…

31" long, 8.5" wide hopefully it’s somewhat stiff, if not some glass on the bottom, and maybe the top… it ain’t going to be what you expect… it’s going to be somewhat kooky and have a 12s2p battery!

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Maybe big gap filling retaining fluid would make the bearing solid.

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That sucks big balls, hope you can find a solution to that, or if you can’t; hope it’s a minimal issue.

BTW that deck, you say it’s not what I expect, but I am expecting a schlongboard now!

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hmmmmmmmmmmmm ok!

Don’t for one moment think that you can’t put 110mm wheels and RKP trucks on a short deck, because you can :smiling_imp:

you most definitely can

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3 posts were split to a new topic: Kook’s outcast effluent

The Grocery Getter

I’ve looked longingly and a little jelly at the short deck urban assault esk8s like @b264 and the choochoo that @rey8801 and the little tank that @mmaner have built and really wanted to try my hand at a shortboard build… a light-weight, small, maneuverable, fun board…

So I got to thinking, what do I like in a board, split angle trucks for sure something 50-60 degree on the front truck and 35-ish degrees in the tail. The front truck must be right at the very front so wheeling it around holding the rear of the board the front wheels are unencumbered.

It HAS to have a usable kick-tail, and if I can fabricate a handhold in the kick tail to wheelbarrow the little girl around so much the better. I also have become quite fond of an angled rear foot stop that an MTB and a drop-down deck has for fast launches…

I love a medium to deep concave in the foot pockets, and the board should be stiff as f*$k so I don’t need a flexible battery or segmented enclosure.

I got to looking around and bought a cheap 31" long, 8.5" wide popsicle deck to mock up my thoughts and to see if I wanted to pursue this concept before I pressed a deck.

Front-truck mounted MTB style, rear truck moved aft and risers and wedges added, really liking the cool super usable kick!

and she should stand in the corner face down ass up like a good girl!

The wheelbase has been increased from 16 1/2" to 24" but she is still really small!

Mocked up on 97mm 'thane and so far I don’t think wheel bite will be an issue, but my plans are to ride her on 90mm wheels…

I found a super deal on @torqueboards site for an enclosure for bux 10, now if Dex and his customer service would get their shit together and tell me why my tracking number hasn’t moved from their warehouse in DAYs, I could show you that gem… but I digress… I’m really liking the way this is shaping up, and I’m going to kick-push her for a couple of days till the rest of the parts come in, and I finish up the motors…

I just wonder… is 110kv @ 12S2P too high of Kv… (maybe these are the wrong drives for this board… hmmmm… we’ll see…

EDIT: I just received the shipping info from @torqueboards, label created Sunday the 26th, received at shipper Wednesday the 29th… I get my shit Friday… Thanks Skaten…

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This is dope af. Digging the diy spirit . I see you

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@visnu777 also used a classic skate deck. Is gonna be fun :blush:

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No, Michael uses a hybrid if you mean the bustin :upside_down_face:
They are different to standard skateboard pop sickle decks…
Sorry I forgot the Santa cruz…my fault me idiot

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I refer to the red star one. I thought is a skate deck.

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Sure it is, too.
Its kinda confusing bc Michael does work on so many projects, thats insane ahhahaha. Sorry dude, i was a bit fast with my reply, was just triggered knowing it better this time hahahahah :man_facepalming: :man_shrugging: :man_facepalming:

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Man no problem at all​:grin: you can write as fast as you want :kissing_closed_eyes:

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Yes I can but i dont wanna be the fool at all by spreading wrong information, bc im not.
Im a professional :joy:

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