banggood has some cheap practice solder kits for PCBs and SMD components I dunno about huge pads… huge pads such as these require a good solder equipment and a big tip (I know that’s what she said)
your joints look acceptable, just take a look at the couple of comments above…
lol…thx, i’ll check banggood for that kit.
As Kook said above.
Any scrap electronics are good to practice on as well.
Temp is good but all those broken strands at the edge of the solder joint would fail my QC if I was judging.
thx bruh…is this something i should handle right away?
I would say yes, because more is going to break as you flex the wires around. You could maybe wrap some shrink around it and be fine but it’s already apart, why not do it properly I suppose?
i already shrink wrapped the shit out of it and put it together already. ill make it a weekend project. that’s gonna bug me until i take care of it.
Hey guys- installed my unity on this tayto 12s2p build. Ran into a hiccup recently where one motor lags a little at start (not each time but enough to be annoying)- I think I already have the most recent firmware installed… how can i go about having them spin reliably at the same time?
Cheers all- stay safe out there
It it only when the wheels are off the ground? Do you only notice it when you give it a small amount of throttle and not when you slam on the gas?
If so it is most likely due to one side having slightly more friction than the other, weather it be from belt tension or a crappy bearing.
If not, I would check traction control settings, use the terminal to check for faults, and maybe check your sensor to sensorless transition settings. You could also try redoing the firmware.
Post a photo of your motor detection results please
About Unity button not working, mine had some corrosion between the 2 “Mom” pins on the pcb, beneath the white plastic part of the connector. i lifted white plastic connector with tip of razor blade. like lift corner, lift other corner, lift middle, repeat. this means walk the little plastic piece away from pcb gently, then scrape out any corrosion between pins.
to test whether button is really the problem,just use a wire to connect “mom pin to mom pin” manually. if it works this way, its your switch. If it still wont turn on with wire, inspect board for any obvious damaged components or corrosiion. If board appears ok, get a can of QD electronics cleaner for about $10 at local auto parts store and also order an “ST Link” from Ebay or other online retailer for about $10. disconnect power from Unity. wait couple hours. spray the hell out of the unity with orange cover off. wait till dry, maybe an hour or 2. then use ST link to reflash it. There’s an excellent tutorial online-search google for “Unity not booting, you are not alone”. As long as there’s no obvious damage to pcb, that’ll fix it.
One of my unitys started having issues yesterday. It would connect via Bluetooth on the app but wouldn’t give me an accurate battery level. It wouldn’t let me write any changes, only read the previous state. Hitting “apply updated config” did nothing except gray the box out like it did a good job. No mcconf write.
I rewrote the firmware last night but didn’t have time to rerun motor detection and see if it was fixed. My enclosure is packed tighter than a drug mules butthole so I’d prefer to not open it up again 
Any chance you are using a flipsky remote in uart? Has your unity ever randomly reset itself?
No to the remote. Yes to random resets. Has happened 3 times on 2 unitys
What remote are you using?
Maytech split trigger on one, mini remote on the other
Okay so I just effed up my USB C port. I’ll have to resolder that lmfao. Anyone have an idea which female jack it is? I found a few on ebay and Ali, but they dont look like the one on the Unity.
Rewrote firmware, immediately noticed battery level was correctly displayed. Reran motor detection and all is normal again.
Test ride soon to confirm.
I figured I should put a couple issues I’ve been having with a few unities in here and possibly someone has a solution.
So the first one doesn’t really power on unless it’s connected via canbus and the other unity is powered on. Also it doesn’t really power on completely I just get a blue light. Can’t do any motor detection etc. how did I get it into this state well let’s just say I by mistake had one phase wire of each motor connected to the opposite side of the unity and did motor detection and a lot of sizzlin happened. Is this repairable ? If not totally understandable I deserve this one to be forever broken as I am a dumbass.
The second one I’m not entirely sure what I did to mess it up. I think it was connected to another unity via can bus already and when I went in the battery I got some sizzle action from within the can bus port itself.
Any tips suggestions would be great. To be clear non of these were issues related to the unity themselves but rather me not being careful when plugging stuff in. Never had an issue with any of my other 6 unities so it’s for sure user error.
Thanks thankss in advance.
