I haven’t but that’s interesting because I feel like my battery has been sagging more and I wonder if that’s the real cause.
@lee care to elaborate on what made you turn it off? Just hitting the throttling top often or indirect readings?
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I’m running FW23.46. no issues two decks 100s of miles and never turned off thermal throttling
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This is the background.
There was no thermal throttle problem with direct drive, and the 6374 motor had three momentary shutoffs during a 30km run.
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Hey guys! I need some help with my focbox unity in finding some older firmware.
I got some major issues after i updated the firmware on my focbox. At first the problem was that my metr module did not work anymore, did not get telemetry. So i updated the metr module but that gave me the headache that now the unity has trouble turning on and is being a major PITA.
Id like to get a hold of some older unity firmware so i can get my board working again, anyone know where i can find it? Or is there any other solution for my problem?
Ive tried connecting to my windows and mac computer but on both pc’s the unity tool complains that it can not read firmware version. I have no issue connecting to it through my android phone though
I figured it out so atleast my METR PRO works., you need to enable UART aswell. I had it set to disabled since my controller uses ppm.
Awesome. I will check and see if I have it enabled. Thanks.
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Weird that you have no issue connecting through your app. I recently bricked my FW and needed an ST-LINK to manually reflash it. I was also able to connect through Metr but unable to change any settings or detect the FW. It said FW 0.0 not recognized. You might be in a similar situation based on what I read.
Check these out:
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Hey man, thanks for your help. I fixed my metr issue by enabling UART in the unity ui app
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Update: ST-Link has fixed one part of my issue, my board will now connect to my phone and laptop no issue, and also will work with the remote. However, the board still wont turn off when i hold the power button down.
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Your abrusoark switch in the unity is dead
I get wet when you talk nasty!
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Somehow I managed to sell “abrusoarks” from now on
I fuc%ing dying over here 
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To circumvent any potential issues, might as well ask the question in advance, what are the Unity users out there running for current settings?
My battery pack can supply more than the Unity can handle anyway, so looking for max battery, motor and braking current for a dual unsensored SK3 6374 build.
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Your pack can handle -120A regen? Shit are you running a 12s20p?
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Graphene LiPos, current config (8S1P) can handle -180A regen and when I go 12S it’ll be -225A.
That’s not the point though, I’m after recommended settings.
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well 6374s probably run 65A per motor? I’d say 110-120A batt current and as much regen as you feel comfortable with? -50A? You only have RWD so too much regen and you’ll just be skidding back tires. Your battery current and regen is not too big of a deal, if you set motor current too high then you run the risk of over saturating the stator and the unity loses sync during sensorless operation rpms.
So in the Unity I’d set a system limit of 130A for motor?
Again, do I double this for the Unity setting, so -100A?
Read somewhere that with the Unity these are system limits, not per motor.
I believe the motor settings are per motor.
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Battery is system total, motor is per motor. So 120 battery amps and 60 motor amps on the Unity would be like a traditional two ESC 60A/60A configuration.
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Battery is system limit, motor is per. 65A setting will give you 65A per motor. +120A and -50A is total system amps for both motors. I would try -50A before you do -100A. That is very aggressive for 2 wheel braking.
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Having that same issue. I’m gonna open the enclosure again to try it with the original module.