I think the cells will take >4a for bursts, especially if the pack is closer to empty. I’d say increase batt min to -20 or -24 and don’t do intense braking until pack is like 70% or less. Maybe.
Brakes are more important than cycle life, as long as notihng catches fire, right? 
Well even at full braking (throttle pulled to the max) the brakes are lame, so nothing throttle curve culd fix. On low speeds the brakes can be locked easily, making changes to the braking throttle curve migth affect both hi and low speeds, more low speed braking won’t be safe for me.
-16A of motor min on my 12S4P will give me 4A of bursts for each 30T, going further will give me even more amps with according to Samsung will be too much:
100% correct, however I wonder why such big ammount of current have this kind of llame brakes!
You can exceed the rated charge for very short periods of time lasting but a few seconds (long enough for your speed to drop from full-speed to just really fast)
I increased battery min to -20A and I’m still braking pretty soft, I’ll try -24A tomorrow and make a couple of logs on Metr, will report back with updates.
thanks guys!
To add a bit of color, trampa often recommends setting bat min very high. -25 to -35 in this case:
And I believe the lower the SOC, the larger charge current the cell can handle. The CC/CV charge algorithm is a generalized formula that is safe for all lithium ion chemistries, but it’s not optimal.
Ok guys I tried -24A of battery min and it’s braking pretty good now, I can ride faster and with way more confidence now, I’m pretty sure the battery won’t have issues in the future.
I tried to log data on Metr but I’, not getting any data, maybe I need to set the baud rate accordingly?
Did you manage to solve this?
I took the bluetooth from the unity out and then i could power it on. hoping there wont be more issues. the unity does not work with bluetooth hope it can be fixed
Does anyone know where can i get a replacement button for the unity besides from Enertion itself?
My button might have gone bad, can’t turn on nor off. Light has gone off too.
I’ve been searching high and low for that antispark and I still can’t find it, want it so bad
I think switches like that will belong in the taobao realm, which i have no idea how to navigate in
Hey everyone, I was curious as to what series count people are running their Unities at. I have a 10s4p battery right now and may consider going to 12s3p in the future so I wanted to gather some information. I didn’t want to make a new thread so I figured this would be the appropriate place to share our experiences
0 voters
Another thing I would like to know is if the anti-spark has failed anyone here.
0 voters
I hope this poll is comprehensive of the users here, if you are running 14s+ or 9s- just choose the series number closest to your voltage. Cheers!
Just a heads up, those voltages are off bud.
Fully charged 30q cells are 4.2v each.
10s = 42 v
12s = 50.4 v
I see. I normally go off of nominal voltages but considering I’m mainly looking for potential issues/failures stating the peak voltage might have been more appropriate.
Some even calculate nominal li-on voltages using 3.7v so it can be all over the place 
during my time as an unpaid enertion RA I saw 3 unities switching circuits failed. that was in about 6 weeks. There is no heat sink on the switching fets.
Please note that this posting is with regard to Comment #246 of this Blog. Please see the Photos posted with Comment #246.
I had a problem where a little 10 pin “IC” on the Unity was burning out. Left a similar burnt spot on the inside of the orange silicone. In my case, the “IC” that was burning was the one that is located right above where it says “R108” in your photo.
I’m not sure if your burnt “IC” which is right next to the “IC” that I was burning is part of the same electrical sub-circuit of the Unities PCB, but it probably is.
Now on my 4wd Dual Unity setup, which has motors powered by 2 Unitys and only 1 battery, I had burnt the little “IC” right next to the one your having a problem with.
I believe the reason that my little “IC” burnt was because when I switched from 2 wheel drive with 1 Unity to 4 wheel drive with 2 Unity’s, I did not cut the “Braking Regenerative Current” or the “Max Brake Current” in half like you are supposed to do.
So basically, when I was “Braking”, I had 2 Unitys sending regenerated current to my single battery pack.
Since I had my Brakes set to about 100% of the Batteries Charging Amperage Rate with 2wd, my not cutting the “Braking Regenerative Current” and “Max Brake Current” when I switched to 4wd meant I was trying to push the current back to the battery at about 200% of its batteries max charging rate. This eventually burnt out the little “IC” right next to the one that You are burning.
So if you are still having issues with this, you might consider adjustinging the “Regenerative Braking Current” and the “Max Braking Current” down so that they total less current than your Battery’s Charging Spec.
And one other note about going to 4 wheel drive while I’m at it. If you are design in ng a 4 wheel drive bnb board and have the option, I think it is best to take whichever size battery you are planning on using and divide it in to 2 independent batteries, and have 1 of the Battery packs dedicated to each Unity.
Lastly, in creating 2 battery packs, set up the Battery Packs so that the + and - power wires from your battery pack are as close to the Unity that they will supply power to as possible. This may be less important if You are using a BMS, but I do not use a BMS, and I have found that it is essential to keep the length of the power wires between your Battery Pack and your Unity as short as possible.
Other than that this new Forum looks very Solid.
Hope You all have a great day of skating and no new issues on the technical side!
On my unitys I set battery regen to - 12A, total - 24A and that can 30Q 6p do.
But maybe thats a problem for others
It’s the unity working with the wand yet?
