Haha I’m able to get a refund on it right now. I think I’m gonna go with the Stormcore as I can afford to do so and I don’t need to risk another Unity blowout.
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I’m new to esk8 so I’m not super familiar with everything despite being an engineer and having decent intuition. So setting the max ERPM is limiting what exactly? I understand what you’re saying for setting the duty cycle, but why shouldn’t I change the max ERPM numbers? Again, my friend is pretty much guiding me through this process and he was directing me to set it to 80000 based on his experience.
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That’s great. Keep both wires next to each other. Twisting them together along their length is even better.
Not to sound flippant but you do that by buying capacitors. 
The ESC has some already there so you could just buy another set of equally rated ones but installing them requires electronics knowledge, soldering experience, and a good awareness of the safety precautions you need to take. Unless you have done things like this many times before I recommend not trying it.
If you’re getting a Stormcore just do the wire shortening thing.
Another consideration…too much capacitance can burn out anti-spark switches that aren’t rated to handle it.
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Duh. Nobody would ever guess that I took an electrical engineering course at my university just a few months ago.
Given everyone’s advice, I think shortening the wire will be sufficient. I also saw there are a couple more capacitors in the Stormcore (which is what you’re implying I think).
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Setting the electrical rotational speed above (or below) which the ESC does not send/receive current to/from the motor.
Because each ESC has defaults set by the manufacturer, and for esk8 it’s best to leave them alone. If you were driving a propeller or something, you may opt to lower them in certain circumstances. For esk8, all it does is “cut brakes (& throttle) above X speed”. It’s not limiting the motor speed.
He probably hasn’t hit his limit yet and doesn’t understand what it does. It’s not limiting the motor speed. It’s limiting throttle and brake output. Use duty cycle to limit the motor speed.
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Yes, he did admit he doesn’t know what it really means and he just does it the same way every time the way he was originally told to.
Thank you so much for the quick lesson. I really appreciate it 
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And yet another consideration is that if the extra capacitance is on the battery side of the antispark switch, it won’t [accelerate the process to] burn out the switch but it will “leak” battery current while it’s turned off and can very slowly drain the battery, possibly destroying the battery if left to its own devices for too long.
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Good point!
Hopefully no one ever does that as the caps are almost useless if not directly connected to the ESC’s input.
Why is it that its always seem to be the 8301 that blows and not the 8303 on the unities?
Both DRVs runs identical settings but the 5V is taken from the 8301… coincidence?
Is the buck converter the weakest link?
Overloading/ shorting the 5v rail?
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Just out of curiosity, how old is your friend’s unity vs yours?
He actually sells boards. Off the top of my head, I think he has three unities of varying ages. However, he has sold 70+ unities in boards including recent sales in the last six months. Both of the unities I popped were brand new.
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Since they both burned out on the same sides by the looks of it, maybe it’s a bad motor? Could be intermittent shorting between the phase wires maybe.
This guide gives some good advice on testing your motors: How to hand-test a BLDC motor [SERIOUS]
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Agreed. Two in a row could be bad ESC to motor connections, motor phase wires shorting against the motor or mount, partially shorted windings, corroded sensor wires, voltage spikes due to long battery cables, etc.
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Just swap the motors and see if the opposite side pops LOL
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I’ll definitely test this out again. We already did some base testing of it just by spinning it and nothing feels wrong.
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More intresting to know what motors you using, unities arent bullet proof, some motors esc just like less. Inductance plays a great part in that.
Might have already been told(im lazy) but what kind of battery are you using? ( Found it, 12s and flipshit 190kv)
Sadly I have no experience of those motors, so not sure. What does the motor values look like in the Tool?
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We set both the motor currents to 65A and -65A based on the specs from flipsky’s website. When we first plugged in the motors and ran the detection, both motors looked just about the same. The currents were ~60A and the other values (that I don’t quite understand) were nearly identical and acceptable according to my friend.
He means the detection values, I think. Not the current settings
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A damaged/shorted remote receiver can also blow an ESC.
Something to consider if you’re going to be bench testing or just swapping things into a board.
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Yeah sadly I didn’t think to get a screenshot