I have one of these in a scooter running a TorqueBoards 6355 with 10s5p salvaged power tool 18650s. It wasn’t too much of a hassle getting updated firmware on it. Current is set at 75A (so ~3000W). I haven’t put much time/mileage on it yet, but it meets my needs. I don’t have an exotic setup though–just an ebike throttle and the motor.
1 Like
Have V1 or V2 board 75100?
Do you use procedure for upgrade from forum ? (Please some details)
1 Like
I currently have V2 but I had two V1 ESCs that I killed.
For now I would recommend not “updating” to 5.3 on the 75/100 foc V2 ESC. I couldn’t get it to work right even with filter set to false as others have suggested. If you want to try your luck Update is easy. Simply download VESC tool 3.1, go to firmware and update.
I downgraded back to stock 5.2 FW using VESC tool 3.00. Same process, go to FW section, choose default .bin and flash.
Edit: 5.3 is fine
1 Like
Thank you, I will stay on stock
chinese ESC manufacturers cheaping out on caps, shocking.
Remove the cap and meassure it with a DMM that can meassure capacitance.
You also need atleast the voltage rating the caps needs. otherwise its gonna get fried again.
1 Like
I got my flipsky 75100 powered onewheel up and running. Using two seperate 75100 box style over canbus. Powering two hoverboard motors joined as one. Drilled through the motors and used harborfreight rims on the outside. Took buying two split rim tire combos. Used half a rim from each tire. Could have used just one if I cut the bearing out. Hoverboard bearing holder centers in the harborfreight rim nicely for drilling holes. Used 8/32 all thread and nylock nuts to tie it all together. Running 67.2v battery. 16s2p. Have a lot of room for more battery. Used a 10x6x6 unilli tire. Bmi160 external imu. Its ugly but it works. Next one I build will be a single 3000w motor and using the newer flipsky aluminum pcb 75100. Have some nice aluminum rails for the next build as well. The picture of motor build was plastic motors from cheap hoverboard. Current build has the steel bell motors. I didnt take pics of this ones build unfortunately. I smoked a motor previously using ddrito printed rim design. Melted the rim. My fault for screwing with the tune and not paying attention. I forgot to mention it has a 13x6.5x6 innertube. Wheel surface is pretty flat. I used aluminum duct tape to cover the center where the rods are exposed. Then wrapped over that in electrical tape. Seems to hold up well.
Just wanted to share my experience with the shitsky 75100. They actually work and have been running relatively cool. I see around a max of 38°c. Running 90 phase amps and 30 battery amps.
4 Likes
I wonder if even being such a high kv if it saturated the motor with that high current.
1 Like
I cranked my D gains way up trying to get some more grunt out of the motor. While cranking P up along with it. Wasnt checking for heat. Its odd how the d gain seems to allow more torque. Its all good now. Using the pt1 and biquad filters. Have the D cranked exponentially higher than when I cooked the motors. The filtering has removed all the heat. Its running nicely. Esc temp isnt going over 35-38c. Motor temps are staying around 30-35c. It amazes me what these little motors are capable of doing. I think my next project will be an rc lawnmower with fpv camera. I want to mow from the comfort of my couch.
3 Likes
This thread hasn’t had much activity for some time. Figured I’d give some insight I’ve learned using the 75/100s which are enclosed in the black metal project box.
TL DR= if pushed above 50A it’s going to start thermal throttling quickly. Adding some sort of additional heat sink will help, I’ve heard some are pushing 3-4kw through this controller with additional thermal management but as is your far better off buying the newish aluminum enclosed 75/100 which has a thin form factor. This has far better thermal performance.
Many other higher voltage controllers using VESC have been introduced in the last year or so. Prices are coming down and quality is improving.
This would be a last resort controller for me right now. Would only use if I already had one or if it was free. Lol!
2 Likes
Ive had real good luck with them, till my vesc goes poof. 6.6 10s, so loafing. I use it almost every day. Treat it gentle, sparing battery. Still, when the left side stopped working as expected, I was trying to BRING THAT SIDE BACK, and it just had stutters, then that side as well, just stopped.
I have heard encouraging words, about Flipsky going forward. The 6/6 is the only one I thought of for everyday. Their stuff now has little review.
I think I have 6x vescs6 from trampa.
managed to break 0 of them over a few years.
Repaired more v4.x then I can count tho.
First impressions of the FSESC 75/100 pro
I just took my first ride on an e-scooter with a better-than-average 10" hub motor.
I just swapped a FSESC 6.6 with the 75/100 pro. Same voltage 13s.
Im using FW6.02. Turned off filters first thing then ran the FOC wizard.
Changed current to 100A motor, 100A max battery, 200 absolute max, -60A regen, -60A break.
I also reduced observer gain from 3.1MWb to 1.5MWb as its helped reduce cogging on the 6.6
I have to say… I’m highly impressed. FOC on the first try is MUCH quieter and smoother than I ever got with the FSESC6.6. Power feels about the same but still, the motor is dead quiet.
The smoothness is on par with a Unity that I was using in parallel config with 12s a while back.
Anyway, Im pretty damn impressed! Ill add some yours truly screenshots when I get a chance to dial it it perfectly. Will eventually add another three p sets in series to give a 16s6p.
Some screenshots of the 75/100 pro on an ex rental Bird 3. 13s vs the stock 10s pack.
Granted I was going down a long shallow sloped hill but I almost reached 50mph!
Some settings that I recently discovered has solved so many issues I’ve had with hub motors. After running the FOC wizard you need to change sensored erpm to 50 and sensorless to 500erpm. This made a HUGE difference as far as stuttering, desyncing,cogging and ABS overcurrent faults.
I also changed the current settings to
100 motor max, -60 brake, 200 absolute max, 100 battery max , -60 regen.
For this particular motor Im using if the motor current is higher than 100A, it will desync when jamming the throttle during the acceleration from a slow speed/standstill.
Field weakening set to 60 - 70A.
I now have very smooth, super quiet, powerful acceleration. I NEVER had a motor run this well right off the bat.
47mph yeh right that’s CGI or you were holding onto a cars bumper. 
shhhhh, don’t give away my secrets!
You can also go faster by increasing your wheel diameter in VESC tool. I couldn’t believe it was so easy!
3 Likes
On a more serious note, here’s last night’s ride. I’m back in Wilmington NC. Totally flat here. No hills.
Notice the arrow symbol next to the top speed and total distance… This means it’s measured with GPS vs using wheel diameter for speed calculations.
Dunning with 16s6p right now. For the first time I’m satisfied. Running perfectly smooth with no cogging, desyncs, or ABS overcurrent.
I’ve only experienced thermal throttle once after 6 miles of full throttle during a hot 95F weather.
1 Like
Shows the MOSFET temp rise to the point of thermal throttling.
During installation I did not try to place the controller anywhere where cooling could happen more efficiently.
The controller is basically in a dead space with no airflow. Unlike previous controllers I did not thermal epoxy its heatsink against the scooters aluminum body in an attempt to create an even bigger heatsink. Even though I’m not going to ride WOT on 95F days I might still try to do the same with the 75/100 pro.
Not 75/100 related but without venting the motor’s, non of this would be possible. At least with these particular motors.
The sealed nature of hub motors are their acheliies heal. There’s simply no way to radiate heat away fast enough once you push them hard.
Statoraid ( aka ferrofluid ) can help but with hub motors like this you’re only pushing the heat in the rim / flux ring. At least with bicycle hub motors you can add radiator type fins on the outside of the flux ring/ rotor but with scooters this is where the tire goes. This is a problem.
Without would have caused either the windings to burn / short or the neodymium magnets would have heated past their Curie point permanently degrading their magnetic strength. Before venting I fried the windings twice. This has helped tremendously.
Of course I wouldn’t think of riding in axle deep sand/ dirt but I’ve had no issues whatsoever after 700 or so miles riding with the exposed motor as shown. Even riding while stuck in a torrential downpour hasn’t caused problems. No magnet corrosion, not have I ever had anything get stuck in the motors air gap. It rotates freely unpowered as if brand new.
yeh i already learned that trick when i put the magnet poles wrong. i was bench testing my max and was like holy smokes 60 mph!.. but then i corrected the settings and it was only like 12 mph loll 
those coil winds look kinda dark or burnt or maybe just the lighting
1 Like