whats wrong with the 75100
it blinks red and says sensor detection failed when i run the foc wizard.
i did turn off phase filtering and downloaded the no-limits firmware that came with it.
I dropped a spot of solder on it and while I did a good job of removing it…not good
I had this same issue. I had to reflash it over sdio. I have 3 of these. Only one had the issue after flashing. Flash it again and it should be fine.
“Flash” meaning boot load again?
Yes use your swd programmer to upload the firmware and not the usb port. Its what fixed mine. I dont know what caused it to stop working after a usb flash. Frustrated me for a while. I used my swd programmer and reuploaded the firmware. Problem was resolved. I was able to setup the controller and use it.
What’s this?
You can use another vesc for this.
how can you find the possible fault code? its different with the newer vesc tool. im going to real time data but not seeing “activate sampling”
It’s in the right sidebar labeled as “RTS” “RT” with a little graph behind it
i go to “terminal” and “print fault codes” and it says no fault, but when i do the foc test it fails and says “detection failed. reason: sensor detection failed”
i dont see “rts” anywhere and maybe thats a different vesc tool. i dont know
vesc is blinking red from as soon as i plug it in and doesnt stop and no motor spinning
oh, my mistake, it’s just labeled “RT” not rts. it’s a button on the right sidebar with a little graph behind the “RT”
I got two of my three aluminum 75100s going, thanks @jaykup, and uploaded ur firmware, but this one I dropped a small spot of solder on it between the black bit with six silver legs and the small brown-with-silver-two-sides bit, and they’re connected now. What to do? Thinking I could heat some multi strand and get it in there to hopefully wick it away?
It shows an under voltage fault but it’s not under voltage and that was my issue with the other two as well but solved it by adjusting as needed in the advanced tab. It flickers some other fault at the bottom right of the screen in red sometimes, overlayed on the low voltage fault but I haven’t been able to catch it to read it yet
Looks like some bridged pins here too. That’s the current sense amplifier (INA181A1) for one of the phases. The brown part next to it is a capacitor which usually has one side attached to ground, so not good if it’s bridged.
Should be able to clean that up with a soldering iron and solder wick. Flux (something like Amtech 213) goes a long way and will help a lot here.
How do the 2 working ones run? What amps are you at and how does it handle under full battery amps?
It’s raining so I can’t ride n put a load on it. I’m hoping the battery was sagging and hitting the low voltage cutoff because yesterday it was super weak and slow as well as vibrating at some speeds.
I’ll ride maybe tonight while carrying my computer to see because dont have Bluetooth hooked up
Just blew up one of these 75100. I charge to 87v. 24s lifepo4. I’ve ridden it maybe 400 miles already for months and I’m curious if anyone can explain what happened. I plugged in the loop key and the motor accelerated madly and I pull out the loopkey to stop it, and something like this has happened years back with another bike when I turned on the bike and accelerated before the Vesc had gone through its full start-up procedure that takes like 3 seconds (I think the flipsky one is quicker than vesc6) and the bike went nuts accelerating and lurching and I had to bail off the side of the road. … so THIS time I think maybe that’s what happened so I stick the loopkey back in and this time I get smoke and flames out of the Vesc and I pull out the key and my guess (what I’m wondering about) is a fet broke leaving it in a constant short. I had to pull the key out again and I don’t know if the fet would’ve ever finally blown through and stopped or what.
i would have tried the loop key a third time just to make sure. loll 
I wouldn’t use 87v on a board, it’s rated at 84v by flipsky and so close, with lifepo4, and @jaykup said all the bits are rated to 100v. One lasted 4 months then flames . Another would make quiet shorting noises and at other times would cut out for short periods and for for very short periods the red light went on. I kept running it not realizing it was shorting when red then the fat QS8 plug smoked while red for a sec and I realized
I’ve now got 2 that are broken and 1 that’s only putting out maybe half the current before ur stutters the motor. If anyone has any ideas on how to fix the stuttering through programming or if there’s anyone who assesses and fixes Vesc these days I’m looking.
I just bought two more. After already having an 87v battery and motor wound for 87v I’m locked into using an esc that can do this voltage. If these two break do you think there’s another good option that can do 87v full charge? The real Vesc 75 is expensive and don’t know if it’s got the overhead clearance I maybe need.
maybe my luck will change this time n spin the wheel again. So far I’m like .5 for 3. When it was going it was great.
Why not just get a 22s battery and not have these issues?
I made two 24s batteries and the cells are potted and don’t want them to be wasted
I have a pair of these running for about 6 months now in my escooter
I broke one relatively fast after getting them
i had to make sure the electrolytics are soldered properly, just add some solder on a tip and make sure the legs are on tight, cause on all 3 i have (1 broken 2 working) the capacitors were badly attached, like the legs came off the pads very easily, bought another one ( hence why i have 3 ) and added some extra solder on every pad of the electrolytics in both the working one and the new one
then i also added 3M Strip Calk on both sides of the caps so it’s firm within the aluminium case and can’t move
the caps are very sensitive to vibration out of the box, especially when you have one that’s soldered badly, like the newer one i opened, i literally moved a cap a bit up and it literally came off the pad without any force or whatever so no doubt vibration could’ve killed the other one
since then i’ve had zero issues
there’s no doubt in my mind the stuttering one probably has less capacitance (use a Dmm, should measure 990uF on the input if working fine), as stuttering is what the broken one without caps (literally) does, and it only has 47uF from a single ceramic cap, the traces to the rest are blown open so i can’t even just solder new caps onto there, i can probly do that externally tho
the one that’s killed by voltage can be capacitance aswell, as a controller with bad or no filtering most likely spikes much higher
And don’t cough on them 
