Yesss. STEP file and OG cad file
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I use Fusion 360. Just insert the mesh, convert to a body, clean up the triangles (just delete them, Fusion will autorepair most of the stuff, especially flat surfaces).
Watch this video, this is where I learnt it.
Also: If you’re not using Fusion to make money, you can get it for free.
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Added temp cutout hole to @Linesflag design
Flexi BMS lid vert. + hor. ports + temp.stl (89.6 KB)
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Oh fuck I had no idea you could do that. Thanks for the info
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I’m a mad man and I use Blender for all my modeling. Easy to work with .stl though, but no support for .STEP. Free and open-source too so no subscription bs to deal with.
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How does blender deal with accurate measurements? From what I can see blender is more on the artistic side of 3D modeling.
Looks really nice!
You can do accurate measurements, but it can become really complex fast (fillets for example can blow up the model geometrics really easily for example), which is where the real parametric CAD-suites (solidworks, freecad, fusion360) are much better suited. As long as your designs stay relatively simple Blender works, as I have been using it for ~6 years for 3d-print modeling. Now if you work or want to work in real mechanical design job, then ofc a proper parametric CAD -software is a much better choice with the future in mind.
Blender works for me, because I know how to use it and get it to do what I want it to do.
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Yeah I don’t think I could ever use blender for accurate mechanical parts, especially considering lack of parametricity
Only thing I ever used it for was to clean up an STL that I made from photogrammetry of the deck on one of my builds
hi man, still not possible to buy one?
Parametric is grate if you know what your making and have a plan how to build it up in cad and what dimensions might change.
It’s a huge hindrance and time consumption when trying to do stuff roughly and quickly to see how if it will work and what will affect dementia and do on when placing components together. Some time sketch up is better even tho it’s past it’s time and now unstable. Need to fined some other software for draft stuff
Overall update.
Due to the global chip shortage I’m unable to make more inventory currently, so I’m going to be increasing the price by 15€ (0% VAT) for the 1.0 HW units. This is partly due to the super skewed supply/demand-ratio caused by the chip shortage, but I was planning on raising the price originally by 5€ for the 1.0 HW release, as the board got upgraded component count and spec wise slightly.
I’ve been mentally going through a bit of a hard time for the past couple months due to the chip shortage and the economic pressure it’s having on me, as my company is still getting started, so I don’t have a lot of capital, but now unable to make money pretty much. I’ve been having generally low motivation and the projected one year lead time for the components isn’t helping. Gonna be going on benefits for a few months, as I haven’t had any personal income for a couple of months.
I’m trying to make the best of the situation by using the extra time that I have to try to make the long esk8 adventure this year, just so I can “get away” so to speak for a while or at least get something other to occupy my thoughts.
Sorry fellas for the generally dumpy news. 2021 has been one of the worst years so far for me.
I plan on making a BMS wiring video with the i3-module, I’ll try to get it done tomorrow.
I’m also finally updating the github wiki pages, which has been hanging in my to-do list for quite some time.
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Don’t worry, get your mind cleared and be well, thats the main thing that matters. 
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Tagging this here for visibility.
I assume the balance cable pulling/jiggling had no effect, indicating that there wasn’t an intermittent connection.
Did you measure the first three cell voltages at the cells themselves or at the contacts of the balance connector?
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Yes, reseating the cable and restarting the BMS had no effect.
And yes, I measured the voltages at the balance connector, otherwise I’d have to remove the heatshrink.
Some measurements.
While the BMS is connected to the pack and the balance connector is also connected. Measure the voltage over the lower end bleed resistors, they should read 0V.
Un-plug the BMS (terminal & balance) and measure the resistance of the Top side 47R and the 120R resistor on the low end cell connections. Measure the resistance on the 120Rs on the bottom side of the PCB for the low end cells, on a diode voltage/testing setting measure the voltage on the bleed Fets having + probe on the edge side and the - probe on the middle side of the board should be around 2.1V.
Bleed resistors are at 0v, except 5th from the bottom, this one sits a 0.03v.
Resistors are all at their rated specs, 47 and 120 Ohm respectively.
The Fets all have 0v across the bottom 2 pins (like you have drawn) except bottom 2 ones which are currently at 0,06v and rising.
Can you post a picture of the bottom side at the balance connector?
And did this unit always have this problem, or did you discover it the first time you plugged it into the Davega?
You did measure these in the diode testing mode (assuming your multimeter has it) and not in voltage measuring mode? They should show something else than 0V in diode testing mode.
I would assume that the higher cell Fets are fine, so you can use them for reference values and you can test them generally in either direction (switch probes around), but the point is that all of them should show roughly the same voltages when measured in the same direction, the voltage may change some amount when the measurement polarity is switched.
My multimeter shows ~2,1V in the aforementioned pictures orientation and ~2,6V in the reverse direction. but different multimeters may show somewhat different values, but you should use the top cell Fets for “good” reference values and then compare the bottom Fets against them.
