EboardSolutions Flexible battery PCB KIT PRE-ORDER

yeah might be an option in future :slight_smile:

How are u connecting the cells to the board? Is it nickel welded through the slot? Hard to see. It looks like individual cells connected through dual slots but it’s so small hard to see. Tiny tab Soldered maybe

My goal wasn’t to make money really. If someone wants a set of these with cells already welded or just the pcbs to do yourself : 5$ each bare pcb or 240$ for two with new 30Qs. 180$ for two set with slightly used cells. Be a tester!

They flex nicely. Tons of welds done. .2mm nickel. They aren’t moving. The welds on the pcb aren’t as strong as soldering but especially with the tape around each cell it’s not coming off

Nickle connect to each cell and to pcb direct by solder. We make wide trace for current handle and 2oz copper.

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@jeffwuneo, you should create a new thread. Let’s discuss there. Let’s leave thread for @EboardSolutions flexible PCB.

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its someone selling something different but i think we all benefit from getting to the bottom of this as no one seems to be putting enough copper on these

i forget the math but remember 2oz copper needing to be two traces about 26mm wide if they were to be the equivalent of a 12 awg wire. i only see one trace in your photo.

Terribly sorry to take this thread off topic, but this trend of directly welding on the PCB is rubbing me the wrong way. “Oh, but this one battery builder does it, so it must be okay!” … No. Just no. You have an extremely high chance of ripping the pads, if not during assembly then by pure vibration over time.

There is a reason why these thicker pads on PCBs exist, so that you wouldn’t weld directly on the thin copper layers of The PCB.


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PM me about those testers? Size, capacity and prices :slight_smile:

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These look awesome. Just a question in regards to the nickel. Is it possible to get slits cut in the nickel. Most peoples spot welders will struggle with. 3 if its not cut. Or maybe get the nickel made in 0.15 aswell so people can stack it if there spot welders can’t do the job.

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Welcome. Level matched to Builder’s Forum. Carry on.

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My English not so good. How can do?

No worries, we’ll help you. Let me know if you have any problems.

I make new rideNEO battery pcb

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There will be slits in them if it’s this what you mean :wink:
image

I doubt that no one had tried to pull off the nickel from the pcb

If no one has, Im glad to do it, send me a pcb I will weld 0.2mm nickel to it with my kweld and post the results

These discussions are starting to get kinda annoying, everyone is talking but it seems to me that most of the people here didnt event hold the pcbs in their hands

Also why complicate things again?
Just calculate the volume of a 10/12awg wire and try to put that same volume in the pcb trace thickness and it should be more or less the same

Or even simpler solution is just to solder some wire on the pcb trace and stop this nonse…

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Could just put multi strand on 12 pcbs as U say but when going for the easiest and most efficient way and you like to dork out on it…

I’ve welded to the pcb many times and and it isn’t too easy to rip it off but when the goal is to do it the best way and also get people to use these with minimal tools an iron seems it

.But still how to get bare cells with just tabs welded on already? That’s needed and no one is selling them even though it’s the only way to ship welded cells that is legal. This could be the easiest quickest safest legal diy battery.

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In EU NKON will weld tabs on any of their cells for you in either C or S configuration.

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I think the issue with NKON is that the tabs are too thin aren’t they? Unless there’s something I’ve missed, it’s been discussed a few times on builders.

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It would work like single cell fusing, should be ok. The current is then distributed evenly into the pcb

I’m no current expert so I’d leave that stuff up to you but I’ve always looked longingly at the tabbed nkon cells :+1:

The tabs are designed to carry the load of a single cell and not the entire P-group, so in order to properly use them you need to solder/spotweld them to a pcb, solid copper bar, flat braided wire or whatever you want.

If the current of the tab is exceeded (single cell malfunction) the tab would burn and cut off the load, thus preventing a thermal runaway.

nkon:

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