mhh yeah, individual will be better for more amps but less good for flex and mass production I think. bestech would want to use them to make batterypacks aswell and with the holders it will better work in the welding machines. Don’t know if the slots allow it but 2 layers might be possible aswell 
there are holes in the pcb to let pass the nickel
About current, yes with the 30q you can have 20A each peak current, but for a street board that will only occur very short while accellerating hard or going fast uphill. Normal ride will be around 20A, prolly even less
well I must be to agresive 20A I exceed all the time on a dule set up (slap on the wrist for a heavy thumb)
10AWG is pretty much accepted as standard as battery leads as well as dule AWG 12 on p group links for a flexible battery so im going to stick to disagreeing IMO.
You welcome to persuade me we berry ever go over 10a a vesc on a duel set up but thats just not what iv seen in my experience or on the other forum based on 12AWG is rated to constant 20A
total missed that think I can see them now you say that. how wide are they (can you get 10mm nickle thro them?
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What kind of material is it made of, is it just standard FR4? Also has it been tested under real esk8 conditions for a significant amount of time? All the vibrations could make the fibreglass crack over time.
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I think the copper and the plating on it especially are at risk of cracking but a fiberglass board should flex repeatedly no prob.
With a fat 3cm trace on both sides (bottom with solder guard against cells) and 2oz copper that’s creeping into 10awg I think. (I forget the details). And with one on top and bottom it will do better w cracking if that were even possible and will have a backup trace
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I remember Elecrow does 4 layer boards with 2-1-1-2 oz for a reasonable price. Maybe this could be a good choice as well, as they also do different overall thicknesses to experiment with.
Couldn’t find anywhere else that does that thin w the 2oz. seems just enough copper possible on a two layer considering the ease of heat disipation and conductance and using at least 28mm double traces
did you print these or buy them?
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I totally understand your frustration, but presentation and trust are both important.
You are known to be the guy that makes the best hub motor, but not someone who makes battery pack. Also these packs have not been tested by anyone else. I haven’t seen you riding it either. So the trust part of the equation was not there.
Now, secondly the presentation. Pack randomly wrapped around in kapton tape doesn’t look like a professionally built pack(I would have suggested heat shrink). Also the nickel plate welded to the PCB doesn’t look reliable(I haven’t seen anyone doing it). They are meant to be soldered them with a high wattage iron.
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Custom by bestech
Looks interesting aswell
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Amen. 
Finally someone who gets it 
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Well, if people here weren’t using that much current, surely we’d be using 35E cells just like Evolve does 
Idk how it is for others, but when I’m riding against strong wind I definitely push my 60A pack to its limits 
(Don’t have telemetry, but it’s slowed me down to walking speed at times)
If there were a Bestech BMS incorporated into the PCB it might be more compelling. 
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We already make bms integrated for next PCB.
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Kaly batteries use nickel spot welded to the PCB.
I am also doing that for my own battery pack:
The connection seems very strong, and no sign that the pad would get lifted. I will still reinforce it with some solder just in case, as it can never be too safe.
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Hmm, interesting! I stand corrected. If Kaly uses this consistently in his board, I take my words back that they would be unreliable.
yeah might be an option in future