Depends on which one you use. Blue is designed to be removable, while red or green will require heat and a ton of effort.
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Would recommend the blue for the parts that you will want to tinker with later on. I got all of my motor mount screws, wheel gear and pulley with blue. It’s strong to keep them secure but removable if you want to upgrade or adjust over time
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Hey guys,
Quick question before I move forward. Does anyone know anything about the MBS wheels I’m using.(The one in the picture above.)I pump them up to be hard and the stay hard and no sign of leakage, but totally flat the next day. These is a brand new, never been used before tires . New tires shouldn’t go flat. It’s only the back two. The front two stay hard.
Does anyone have advice on this? Do I have F’ed up new wheels and need new ones?
Urgent reply please as I am not sure if I want to continue mouth ring these pullys if wheels are messed up. Also, I specifically got the pullys for this type of wheels. Or can these work on other 8in tires?
Thanks
I’m having Indy speed control llc building my batt. And so far they been great. Why?
Also, don’t scare me about my esc, haha still waiting for it to come in the mail so a little too late haha.
I was just curious. You have to be careful when buying a battery. We have a lot of good battery builders on this forum.
People say it’s a descent ESC, so I guess you’ll be good to go as long as you don’t push it.
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Sounds like theres a pin hole or the valve core is loose
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I’d take out the leaky tubes and check for punctures/holes. To do that, fill up a sink with water, pump up the tubes, and submerge the tubes in the sink (or like a bucket of water) and look for air bubbles. Then just patch the holes and keep going.
If it’s a leaky valve, and it has a removeable core, remove the core (i’m not sure if it differs from a presta valve, but you may need a special tool to do it–or just some needlenose pliers) and wrap the threads with ptfe tape (not too much or it won’t thread back in) then replace the core.
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Ok I’ll give this a shot
Quoting myself from a few days ago
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If you’re here to break even you’re in the wrong hobby bud 
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Yeah, I learned that the hard way
Ok so I took the inner tube out and submerged it under water and air bubbles came out what so ever, not the valve either so I don’t know. How would the tape help if air isn’t leaking ?
Squeeze the tube while it’s submerged to make sure. If it doesn’t leak underwater i don’t see how it would leak in the tire…
Sooooo is the gap between the tire and gear supposed to be bigger or smaller. I noticed on side is deeper than the other. Does it matter?
Is the keyway slotted all the way in? I find sometimes they don’t always fit perfectly, which might be keeping it from sliding on all the way.
Also sometimes theyre just tough to get in, so maybe you could tap it with a mallet.
Or the grub screws haven’t been backed out enough yet for the pulley to slide on.
side question: what hubs are you using? If they’re mbs hubs, what are you using for the standoffs?
Might need to trim the keyway with a dremel tool if you have one, had that same issue where it won’t go over the gear but shaving it down a bit should work
Yes, that will matter a lot. One side isn’t fully seated, or maybe the spacers aren’t all the same length or something. You will definitely need to fix that before you ride.
Try removing the key from the motor shaft (it should be just press-fitted in there, so it should come out with a little tugging and wiggling with a pair of pliers) and try the gear on the shaft without the key installed.
If it goes without the key but won’t go with it, then your key is a little bit oversized. Pretty easy to remedy, less than a minute with some sandpaper or a file (or a rotary tool) should do it. Try not to take off any more material than you have to, it’s probably only a few thousandths of an inch difference between too tight and just right.
If the pulley doesn’t go on without the key either, then I’d suggest checking the pulley’s bore and the shaft both for scratches, burrs, dings, dents, or other imperfections that could be getting in the way. A part that made it through QC without having all the little sharp bits left over from machining be removed can easily cause things to not fit. If you find any, just dress them down nicely with a file or similar, and try again.
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It would be better if there were a video tutorial