Hello!!!
I am building my first DIY and I don’t have much help considering I just moved across the country. I LOVE eskating but I know VERY LITTLE on how to put one together. Everything from little nuisances/ details that a newbie would miss to programming the ESC and hooking up electronics I am new at. It’s just me and YouTube so I wanted to create the thread to share with everyone the progress of my board. I plan to post lots of questions and pictures in hopes of some help. And if I ask a “stupid question” please don’t be arrogant, this is my first build and I’m here to learn. I found an old brand new MBS mountain board that I will use as my base and first build and then add more parts as I get more advanced.
My set up:
MBS atom 95 deck
-stock wheels, trucks,
Custom motor mount and pulley from IDEA for MBS trucks
Dual 6374 flipsky 190kv motors
Dual fesc 6.7 plus from flipsky
Powered by a custom build 12s4p molicell P45a cells
Haven’t got the remote yet
Same kinda level as you. I’ve been working on my first build which I’m about done with, one thing you really have to consider is doing lots and lots of research. It’s crucial especially when it’s your first time, that’s what I had to do. I had to learn how to solder, etc, it’s a learning process but it’s well worth it in the end. It took a great amount of time looking the stuff up and getting questions answered on here, so do that first, look up videos. Read up on articles, this is something you don’t want to fuck up, so be very cautious with everything you do. I can give you tips on how to check everything and not make mistakes during the process, luckily I only made one with shorting my lipo but once I checked it with a multimeter, I learn that it’s ok so I got away with that one. Not gonna say you will slide away everytime but it’s best to take the precautions, i wish you luck with your first build. Got any little questions or need advice. Know where to find me
Yes, they need thread locker. The majority of the things you don’t want to come off while riding is the gear for the wheel, wheel pulley set screws and the screws going into your motor.
Hey man, welcome to esk8. Most of your parts look good, but I would recommend that you find a more reliable ESC such as a Stormcore 60D. Flipsky’s don’t have the best reputation, but it will work.
Who is building your battery?
And for a remote, I think that most of us here would recommend the Hoyt Puck.
The Flipsky 6.6 was actually decently reliable, the one he mentioned, the 6.7, is brand new, and I don’t think anyone except @Lee_Wright has one yet, so who knows, I imagine it’s pretty good though
Good to know. Flipsky overall doesn’t have the best rep though. For a few more $$, I’d get a stormcore or xenith, they have a better resale value and are easier to sell too.
The reason why I ask about thread locker is because the first thing I want to upgrade will be my wheels. I was worried the thread locker will not allow me to unscrew the screws. Will it?
Would recommend the blue for the parts that you will want to tinker with later on. I got all of my motor mount screws, wheel gear and pulley with blue. It’s strong to keep them secure but removable if you want to upgrade or adjust over time
Quick question before I move forward. Does anyone know anything about the MBS wheels I’m using.(The one in the picture above.)I pump them up to be hard and the stay hard and no sign of leakage, but totally flat the next day. These is a brand new, never been used before tires . New tires shouldn’t go flat. It’s only the back two. The front two stay hard.
Does anyone have advice on this? Do I have F’ed up new wheels and need new ones?
Urgent reply please as I am not sure if I want to continue mouth ring these pullys if wheels are messed up. Also, I specifically got the pullys for this type of wheels. Or can these work on other 8in tires?
I’d take out the leaky tubes and check for punctures/holes. To do that, fill up a sink with water, pump up the tubes, and submerge the tubes in the sink (or like a bucket of water) and look for air bubbles. Then just patch the holes and keep going.
If it’s a leaky valve, and it has a removeable core, remove the core (i’m not sure if it differs from a presta valve, but you may need a special tool to do it–or just some needlenose pliers) and wrap the threads with ptfe tape (not too much or it won’t thread back in) then replace the core.
