Not quite. S count determines your pack voltage, which is your top speed.
P count determines your pack amperage (Amp hours [capacity, aka range], continuous amp output [torque], maximum charging current [braking torque], etc).
Volts * Amps = Watts. Watts are the total energy output of the system. WattHours are also a much better way to determine your range than AmpHours, because it is a measurement of the actual energy stored in your pack.
So if you want to go faster (with the same drivetrain; gearing is a whole separate thing) then you need more voltage. If you want more torque, then you need more amp-delivering capabilities, which can be achieved either with a higher output rated cell, or with more cells in parallel.
if i just had the rear hanger a BD 184 to fit the motors, and the front one calliber II (both at 50 degrees), would that be super weird? like, what could go wrong?
ok, then what i said is totally upside-down lol
i need to do a research…
in order of important for battery is 1.Torque (and breaking) 2. Range 3. Weight (keeping it lightish). speed isn’t so important. my budget is around $250, a little more, a little less depending
small update on first build: ive now got the motors - the new flipsky 6374’s - have a boardnamics rear hanger that will go into the baseplate of the calliber 2. have a @BigBen fiberglass enclosure. ordered a 36T kegal press-fit pully and 17t motor pully from @Anubis 's store
am about to order the new slimmer NESE modules for the double-stacked 12s4p 30q battery.
ADVICE NEEDED
so this is my planned layout…is there anything i should plan for? anything wrong with this? ive just accounted for the ESC and battery - BMS modules aren’t essential components, right? measurement-wise i could account for up to 12s6p module, but the weight will be too much i think - 4p is already pushing it. thoughts any1?
BMSes are essential imo. They’re cheap, and it’s way easier to have one than to route all those balance wires to an external connector in the enclosure. Not having one at all would be crazy.
Are you sure you have room for a double-stack NESE? You’ve got quite small wheels, I’m surprised you went for an enclosure that thick…
i didn’t request the thickness, Ben had already made a mold (the only one for this deck) and i ordered it. turns out that with a gasket on double-stacked will be fine. the new modules from @Agniusm when double-stacked come in at 40mm, so really not bad. and i want the extra range. i may ending up getting some Boas if the cags are a pain…but having viewed quite boards - especially Evo builds - my enclosure doesn’t come as near to the ground as some of those.
TB 72A wheels would be better I think, although you are in the UK so maybe Boas make more sense for the money. I’d stick with cags though unless you need the clearance.
Everyone’s using either Daly BMSes, or LiTechPower smart BMSes. Not sure where to get the Daly ones in the EU, but smart ones you can get from Apex Customs: https://www.electricskateboarding.co.uk/bms
im going to try the cags for a bit - some people have no problem with them, others prefer much larger for bad streets. I ride around on the cags fine locally … electric will extend my distance so i maye find somethinf bigger is needed. thank you for the BMS recommendation =D (…in a nutshell, what does a BMS actually do that the ESC doesn’t?)
forgot to mention that i also have anti-spark. so what am i missing…or can i start building once the battery and BMS arrive… any cables,converters, wires or generally any extras i might need? (safey gear aside)
You definitely want to read up more on the forum about building a battery if you don’t know what a BMS is for
In a nutshell: Over time your cells internal chemistry might change a little, which results in some of them charging up faster than others. A BMS with balancing makes sure that the cells that charge slower still get charged up to full, and that the cells that charge faster don’t over charge, which could be dangerous.
Do you have a charger? Extra belts, assuming you don’t get the tension right the first time and they break? Do you have threadlocker to put on basically all bolts so that they don’t come loose from vibrations?
i have got extra belts, no charger yet though. no threadlocker either - but which bolts should i be using them on? - the threaded inserts/bolts i obviously want to be able to remove them and i have push-fit pulleys don’t need glueing…so where might the glue come in handy? - EDIT: just thought that the drivetrain might need some glue at points
ah yeah i read about the BMS some time ago and forgot! just come across so many builds without them I kind of edited them off of my shopping list. also, just want as few electrical componnent in there as poss, to reduced any failure risk. will give the BMS a second thought though, thanks
I use it on all bolts that don’t have nylon nuts on the other end, and even then maybe some. Blue threadlocker isn’t permanent, you can still unscrew the bolt, it’s just that it won’t unscrew itself from vibrations. You definitely want it on the motor mount bolts, and on the enclosure bolts as well, since gravity will be helping those come out anyway.
