@rosco is l33t
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thanks mate.
Well I’m learning.
Today that PVA works very well, and my part de moulded super easily. 
Finish also looks pretty fair straight off the mould surface. Will need a sand and clear coat still though.
My mould shape however, not so good.
Still some voids on edges and corners despite some effort to avoid them.
It’s a problem with the shape, needs smoother, more gentle curves.
For reference; a buck shape like this is not ideal. (don’t do this)
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is that only carbon fiber or also fiberglass
Ooh yeah, those sharp corners do look problematic. You need a stronger vacuum!
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I ran it at 25 inches of mercury… 
don’t think that’s the solution. The problem is the shape.
It’s two layers 200gsm carbon twill and 2 layers 400gsm biaxial fibreglass. It is thin and only really suitable as a cover.
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Could be why @BigBen enclosures walls have a little taper maybe right angled corners are difficult to get right.
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Yeah I agree. If you have a more gradual curve the layup will be much easier. Anytime you’re laying a flat cloth into a complex curve. The less severe the angles the better.
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I know, I know… 
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Thanks for making the mistake tho it will prevent us from making it.
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Can you throw a heavy layer of gel coat on first before layup?
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Could do, but I don’t expect it would help. The issue is bridging of the fabric and Is really caused by the sharp corners in the mould. Three attempts, I’m a slow learner!
Lessons learnt and moving on.
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Forming the buck. Two bits of thinner ply as the base, and the thicker, relieved ply to form the bulk. More clamps, more gooder.
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awesome, why haven’t I thought of that? who needs 3D drawing and printers to make a mold?
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You don’t need to print anything. If you are capable with your hands all you have to do is make the shape you want. You could use wood, plaster, clay, foam, plastic, cardboard, whatever you feel most comfortable using. The most important thing is the shape and making sure that your fabricating materials and you molding or laminating materials are compatible. Eg (Fiberglass resin can dissolve some foams). Of course you will get various results depending on what combo you go with and your skill level. @glyphiksis a carpenter and has a great working knowledge of wood so that’s a great material for Al to use. I do a lot of mold making and casting in my job and I’ve been semi planning on making an enclosure molding and casting thread, but haven’t managed to do that yet. The draft and complex curves on the initial form are extremely important and will help or hinder your casting, layup, and demold.
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Totally! I showed one of the local dudes and he said 'oh if only there was an easier way"
For me this is by far the easiest way. I have little knowledge of 3d design and no time or patience to fix my 3d printer. Likewise I do not have the time or patience to sculpt foam. I’m sure there are many other methods too and I would love to see them!
One of my favorite things about this forum is seeing people attack tasks in a manner that is according with their particular skill set. There are so many different ways to skin a cat.
I would really love to see that thread Damon, I for one have definitely benefited from your advice in the past, share the love brother 
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Trimmed up with 10degree draft on the sides and 15 at the ends. Took a slight 45 off the corners to make it easier to sand in round corners.
Bogged it all up with 2 part builders bog. Currently heat gunning the shit out of it cos im impatient
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Would love updates for this! I wanna use this wood method to make an enclosure for my Undertaker deck from Gunslinger which I’ve hacked up so it will run pneumatics without wheelbite, my eskating enclosure is decent but want something that works with the curve of the deck
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Gonna be working on it some more today buddy
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Switchblade 40 double stack buck cut down to shape. Need to bog up the holes then round all the corners.
The ss for the switch needed a little more fine filling and then it’ll be ready for primer
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Looks good. What do you use as primer? And that’s “just” to saturate the wood before wax, right?
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