It will probably work, there is no such thing as flat around here
Just posting this here so I don’t forget, talked to @Gamer43 and about 60A is probably the most motor current I can push out of them, this may not be enough, but since I will take the motors apart anyway I can easily re terminate them and lower the Kv by 1.73, this will help a lot on the esc department
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Looks stunning! cant wait to see the parts come together 
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Thanks @Creavenger
Motors are in, this is the best way I can describe them
- Magnets are held with regular epoxy by the looks of it
- As expected the wires are just extensions from the windings
- Apparently the motor is terminated in in Wye, screwing with my plan of switching from Delta to wye
- Windings are not as tight as other motors, will short if not battle hardened
- Sensor PCB on the “bottom” side, really helps in making the DD shorter
- Stator has a notch for circular key, really good (the pin isn’t actually used on the motor)
- Not that matter for me, but the axle is 10mm
Overall the dimensions are slightly different so I will have to rework the design a bit
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FESCS are in, until I get a quote on the DD components that will too expensive to make and I give up, I continue designing it
I’m thinking if I should do a double stack battery for it to be shorter, or single and go from truck to truck
The third option would be to cut a hole in the deck, make a aluminum lid and laminate the enclosure on the bottom Inboard style
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replacing the jst connectors and soldering directly to the tab would save you some precious mm if you want to make it as slim as possible and stack the ESCs
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That is a good idea, probably the only connectors I will have is the motor ones on the enclosure itself and the XT90 as a switch, the heat sink will also go and be replaced by a piece of aluminum that is part of the bottom of the enclosure
Was ready to send the DD to be machined, but remembered that I didn’t model the hall PCB, glad that I checked it
Now I have to decide between inverting this end piece and hugging the motor can from the outside or removing the PCB and wiring each hall individually, the first will lower my ground clearance, and the second will give a bit more work
I think I will go with the later one, I need to add a temperature sensor anyway
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Just got this pair of boosted motors from a friend, apparently the bearings aren’t smooth, has anyone ever opened one of these? They definitively have a different electromagnetic design from most motors, while there a big cogging steps like every motor, the is a lot more tiny steps while you spin it by hand, really similar to a high pole / slot count motor
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So the reason for the different cogging torque is curved magnets
If the DD goes south they may end up in this build
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Shit how did I miss this build–following. @Pedrodemio nice to see every step going into this, good work man 
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Those really are tiny motors
@whaddys thanks man, I really want to get it riding as soon as possible, unfortunately the machine shop here that has good quality and a very fair price takes ages to quote, in the meanwhile a chinese factory respond in a few hours with a detailed quote, unfortunately they probably are more expensive when you consider shipping, taxes, and our crap dólar conversion
@Saturn_Corp Indeed, but they are really well constructed, the only thing that I will pick is using non sealed bearings, these motors are in perfect conditions, only the outer bearing is completely shot, and you can’t replace them since the pulley is press fit and has to be cut in half with a Dremel, so if they replaced with sealed bearings these motor would last a long time
But other than that, they have curved magnets, at least 3 different epoxy types in different areas of the windings to secure eveything, a plastic shield that prevents any wire to shorting or the mounting screw going too deep, a decent copper fill, more than most motors
I will have time in January to test a bunch of motors I have here and compare and rate the output torque and power scientifically, lets see how they do
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Nice 3" Wide?
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just a hair over 2"
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This is really cool, I will see if it can be done for the plastic ones, after seeing @rich pictures I really want to start with a wide tire
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Do you mean superstars? I would guess they have a fairly similar profile so it shouldn’t be to difficult.
Yeah, I have them fully modeled, it may be possible to make a design that mix laser cut and 3D printed parts for it to be dirt cheap to make, I’ve been loving this construction method
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