Evolve Killer - Lofty RX-1 | 12s4p vtc6 d140| 72kv Lofty DD dkp| FS 4.20+| Evolve 97s

Well if you have been following the Lofty DirectDrive discussion thread, you would have already seen this build. It came out of the box as a complete but the hell do you think I am. Ain’t no board can escape my DIY wrath.

Let me introduce you to the Ultimate Evolve Killer. The Lofty RX-1 at its final form.

(Cough… Might throw an unity at it but I don’t think there’s room left)


  • Lofty maple fiber glass deck - a bit shorter than Evolve bamboo GT perfect for me
  • Lofty carbon fiber enclosure
  • Lofty DirectDrive 72kv DKP
  • 12s4p VTC6 D140
  • Flipsky 4.20+
  • Flipsky Vx1 remote
  • Metr Pro
  • $100 worth of riptide bushings, pivot cups and arrow percision washers



Great work @Winfly you must know a thing or two about e-boards


Only a thing no 2


30s4p hot damn





Nice board :smiley:

What settings are you running on the fsesc & drives? How are is it holding up?

I’m actually running quite aggressive settings.
Battery 40/-15
Motor 80/-60 they are only rated for 50A continuous but if they get hot, it will just throttle or fault and I’ll be expecting it to happen so I ain’t gonna fall too hard on them.

Why so much on bushings and washers? I get the bushings, but precision washers?

Because dkp = double the cost.
Percision washers are definitely worth on road side bushing. Once you try them. You cant go back


Does it still ride like a compromise though?

What do you mean? It’s much better with fat cone board side, which gives much greater response for leans all the way to full lean. There aren’t percision washer big enough for the fatcone so thats the compromise.

Your bushing choice is excellent. I meant the board in general. Lots of faffing around to get it the way it needed to be.

In your opinion, was it worth it in the end or would it have been better to start with a better motor kit and go from there?

My goal is to have the best of each category of board. I’ve done that for Hubs with my 13s Hummie build. It has broken so many times I can’t even count with my fingers. But since I built it I can always identify what broke and fix it in a few hours.

This Board is my DKP board. The DirectDrive is a plus on top of dkp. I love and appreciate things that are engineered that’s why I still haven’t finished my SR belt drive. It’s been sitting there for 7 months now.

This is absolutely worth it for me. And this is exactly how I envisioned it would be from the beginning. I ran into these problems because I’m building something never done before. That’s my thing, I want to be build unique boards. First the Hummie on Hummie deck. Now this.

My WIP bucket list is:

  • 3GD with Venom Magnum on Aera trucks
  • Bracket build on custom deck
  • SR belt drive with the pressfit and motors that I have for a long time.

what is that silver part inside the motor?

Part of the can than holds the bearing

i am so confused why they did this DD the way they did it.

Why? It seems very understandable. It’s done in parta to lower manufacturing cost. Otherwise you will be paying $700 for Hummie hubs

This is great to see! My lofty build will end up being similar.

Lofty drives
97mm Thane

Still need to choose a deck and battery

1 Like

Can you go over your bushing choices? Are those riptide krank bushings? If I am guessing :

Fatcone 96a
Barrel 93a

Fatcone 93a
Barrel 90a

Is the above right?

Also, do precision washers make a big difference?


  • 96 fat cone, standard big washer
  • 93 short cone , arrow percision cone washer


  • 93 fat cone, standard big washer
  • 90 short cone , arrow percision cone washer

And percision washers depends on preferences. I use the flat cone washers because it give a more linear return to center. But since it’s dkp it’s actually exponential but the fat cone is helping it too. I’d you feel like you won’t be stable on dkp I recommend just use regular cup washers for the short cone. Or maybe just use a regular cone bushing on board Road side. It will give you more stability.

Edit: typo.