Well if you have been following the Lofty DirectDrive discussion thread, you would have already seen this build. It came out of the box as a complete but the hell do you think I am. Ain’t no board can escape my DIY wrath.
I’m actually running quite aggressive settings.
Battery 40/-15
Motor 80/-60 they are only rated for 50A continuous but if they get hot, it will just throttle or fault and I’ll be expecting it to happen so I ain’t gonna fall too hard on them.
What do you mean? It’s much better with fat cone board side, which gives much greater response for leans all the way to full lean. There aren’t percision washer big enough for the fatcone so thats the compromise.
My goal is to have the best of each category of board. I’ve done that for Hubs with my 13s Hummie build. It has broken so many times I can’t even count with my fingers. But since I built it I can always identify what broke and fix it in a few hours.
This Board is my DKP board. The DirectDrive is a plus on top of dkp. I love and appreciate things that are engineered that’s why I still haven’t finished my SR belt drive. It’s been sitting there for 7 months now.
This is absolutely worth it for me. And this is exactly how I envisioned it would be from the beginning. I ran into these problems because I’m building something never done before. That’s my thing, I want to be build unique boards. First the Hummie on Hummie deck. Now this.
My WIP bucket list is:
3GD with Venom Magnum on Aera trucks
Bracket build on custom deck
SR belt drive with the pressfit and motors that I have for a long time.
And percision washers depends on preferences. I use the flat cone washers because it give a more linear return to center. But since it’s dkp it’s actually exponential but the fat cone is helping it too. I’d you feel like you won’t be stable on dkp I recommend just use regular cup washers for the short cone. Or maybe just use a regular cone bushing on boardRoad side. It will give you more stability.
