You’re stating the obvious. A 5 liter V8 with a 4 speed transmission has higher consumption than a 1.3 liter 3 cylinder engine with a 5 speed transmission. But you don’t buy a Ferrari to drive 40kmh all day and you don’t get a tractor for a racetrack, do you… So what exactly is the point you’re trying to make?
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Added pics and video.
Were you riding the board experiencing the warming motors?
Na, they get hot after full throttle no-load freewheeling. 50 degrees centigrade after a few seconds, need to look into that.
EDIT: It’s not false readings, they are actually hot to the touch!
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So no overheating? What top speed are you trying to achieve?
Did you buy the TB110 from TB directly?
So many parts are within reach but there are a lot of parts which are bound with high shipping and potential duties 
50 degrees for 2 amps freewheeling is strange. I’ll do the whole setup again and see what’s up. I didn’t have any duties to pay sofar, which parts do you need to get from non-EU?
I want the black TB110 as the cloudwheels are stilll iffy.
Think i’m going to order the TB6374 instead of the Maytech I was after.
I to need a good dual trigger remote, hows that maytech working for ya…any serious disconnects?
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It’s working perfectly. I still have to whip out the RF Explorer to actually measure the signal strength. I put the board up in the air, took the remote, hit full throttle and took a stroll. I was able to walk into every room (fat concrete/brick walls) without a single disconnect. I would say it’s stable.
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Im going to order a set of the 72a and put the 74a on the other board. Do you mean the black 78a?
The TB motors will definitely also be good, but the they’re not sealed and you need to use adapters for the sensor cable, or solder a jst-ph 2mm connector to it.
Yes I mean the 78A. I haven’t heard about the 72a. When will those be released? I’m not a big fan of the blue 74a ones. Just because of the color.
About the TB motors, that’s something good to consider lol. Thanks for notifying.
Let me know if you find out what was causing the heat.
Still can’t seem to figure it out. The motors will heat up to 50 degrees and are then relatively stable. But that would mean under load they will be hotter than that.
I’ve noticed if I do motor detection via the wizard, I get different values from the FOC detection directly. Especially observer gain will fluctuate. Also, the slave will lose the FOC settings when doing detection via CAN and reverts to BLDC. Connecting the slave directly to USB solves this, but I have to re-read the sensor table. The same thing happens the other way around, but only occasionally… So I connect them separately, set everything, save everything after every change, disconnect and restart the whole thing (also battery disconnect) and 5 minutes later I restart. When I do it like that, all settings are saved, when I do something different, some settings will not be saved for some reason. Damn VESC Tool.
App settings weirdness. I think it makes sense but it does weird me out. I’m using UART, set the deadband to 15% but when hitting the throttle even slowly up to 20%, the wheels will spin up to top speed immediately, even though it’s only 2 amps. I guess this happens when no load is applied and it will react differently when actually riding, can someone confirm this? Also, the wheels won’t always spin up at the same time. I figured this has something to do with traction control but TC has always been turned off. I expect this to react differently under load as well.
EDIT:
I managed to lower the temps a bit. I have @dickyho steel motor gears. They have some imperfections like the grub screw holes not being filed down (sharp edges basically sticking out of the gears surface) and the grub screws that sit over the key stick out just enough that the belt can’t sit perfectly on the gear. I filed and sanded all sharp edges and then I filed the grub screws to be flush with the gears surface. This smooths the noise that the belts make and the gears vibrate less. The motors now go up to 45-47 degrees.
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thx, I’m using the Mini remote on both of my builds which is good but I’ve had to move both of my receivers to the front of my boards to fix micro disconnect problems. at first I thought it might have been low batteries but that was not the case. I can’t seem to get over the dual trigger remote. I started with an R2 remote, dual trigger remotes just seem so natural with me.
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What are these wire clamps? looks so clean!
They’re actually the original Evolve ones. I used a heat gun to reshape them and then bolted them between two nuts to create more space for the cables.
I wouldn’t want anything else than dual trigger. If it weren’t for the Maytech I would mod a mini into an Evolve remote housing to have dual trigger.
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Look up P clips, took me some time to figure out too hahaha.
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any major signal problems?
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