Good news - the eboosted enclosure won’t scrape the ground on tight turns with the RKPs dropped through.
Task for this weekend is to do minor surgery on the enclosure to allow flex. It will then get sprayed down with bed liner, and some silicone putty to fill the gaps but still allow flex.
Doesn’t it need to bend the other way?
Yeah the deck has a little bit of length wise convex shape, but you’re right - it mostly needs to bend the other way (a lot).
Huh? Is it going under the board?
How are those slots gonna allow any movement when it’s bolted to the deck?
It’s gonna be like a vierendeel truss.
Fancy words, what are you, some sort of architectural engineer??
No Engineer 
Yeah it’s going under the board. I imagine the enclosure flexing with the deck.
I’m planning to use silicone putty to fill the gaps and keep junk out of the enclosure. If I mold it right it should allow for flex.
I’m optimistic that it will work the way I envision but I’m a little worried about breaking the enclosure. I had to dremel a tiny bit off the walls to fit the 10p pack. Unfortunately this weakened the walls and one of the ribs cracked. I stuck it back together with JB weld. We’ll see how much JB I end up using on this thing…
A flexible butyl waterproofing tape might be easier?
Silicone sealant seems like it will be difficult to get good adhesion on the narrow cut edges (normally needs a reasonable area for adhesion) and may be hard to finish neatly.
Something like this (as seen on tv style) tape could work?
I think I see what you mean now. The enclosure might snap catastrophically the first time I flex on it - because I’m potentially putting load across the bottom of the enclosure.
Would be safer to extend the cuts all the way through to create individual segments…. I might just mount it and see what the flex is like.
I’ll do it for science
I don’t think it’ll snap. More likely to crack at enclosure bolt holes if anything.
I also like doing science! 
You could slot the mounting holes to allow movement while flexing, but achieving that while keeping the enclosure somewhat sealed seams like a tall order.
Edit: I should have prefaced this post with “I believe” because I’m far from positive.
First attempt. It’s not pretty but the flex is good. I broke the “rib” again and added a bunch more JB weld.
Eboosted advertises this as good for 10s5p 18650 but I had to sand it out, which weakened the sides. Obviously what I’m doing isn’t intended by EBP - just pointing out 5p is a real tight fit.
I need to let the JB weld fully cure and then spray everything down with bed liner tomorrow.
Maybe 10s5p fits if you orient the cells differently
Eboosted shows it like this
Maybe you’re just supposed to know that 10s will be tight af and require sanding. I guess those few extra mm from fish paper and tape add up.
I did not know. It would have been a non issue if I didn’t start cutting the enclosure so I’m not complaining.
IMO this enclosure is best suited to 10s4p with 21700 cells anyway but I got a deal from Mawzie on his beautifully built 18650 pack.
Flexifying the eboosted enclosure kind of worked.
The deck still has some flex but nowhere near as much as without the enclosure mounted. With no enclosure the deck bottoms out with no trouble on a big bounce. Successful experiment but I’m not super happy with the results.
I’ll probably end up chopping the enclosure into segments to achieve unlimited flex. Any ideas what kind of rubber sheet I should glue to segments together with?
Almost done with this build. Just need to put belts on and lube the motor bearings.
After hacking the eboosted enclosure to pieces, the deck flexes great. The enclosure was about the same width as the deck, so I drilled holes for regular skate hardware for mounting instead of inserts. Inserts would’ve been been too wide for the deck.
The xenith seems happy on 5.3, but I think I need to put bearing oil the motors. They sound a little rough despite being brand new.
And the insides
Final flex test
Buy these two things , trust me
