Adjustable endbell timing?
it was sort of a ratchet / freewheel type thing on one side.
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Does that mean it would drive two wheels and only brake with one, or did he have it setup to drive both wheels and brake both wheels? I’d love to see more how this worked.
i’ve only seen images, and my recollection is fuzzy. It may have relied on the brakes from the side with twin motors. A lot of 4wd boards either split brakes or only use the rear, bioboards being an exception, and some of mine i just reduce the brakes all around if its 4WD to keep the user from catapulting forward.
NGV (nextboards) was one that used rear only brakes because all wheel brakes at the speeds they were attempting would have melted the battery instead of just their shitty phase leads like that one time.
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Have you considered inrunner style motors instead of the traditional outrunners?
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IMO this discussion should be moved to a new thread about “1 motor for 2 wheels” or something for further discussions because it’s interesting but offtopic here in this thread.
You can 
I met a crazy swiss dude in germany last month which is running a single 910kv inrunner on 8s driving both rear wheels, this board is a rocket with crazy acceleration! He is a member in german esk8 forum where I took this pics.
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Found this videos of him (Bruce Lee in the german forum).
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That’s sick, it will work, but just comparing the front and rear tires wear we can see that it really goes fast (just a guess)
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Holy shit this thing looks amazing. i have often thought that a 2 stage hybrid belt/gear drive would be great. belts are better at lower torque and higher speeds and chain or gears would be better at higher torque lower speeds. 2 stage drive with belt on first stage then gear or chain on the second could be awesome. should be quieter than a gear only drive and allow for many more ratio options in a more compact format.
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apart from battle hardening and something to stop shafts from moving, I’d love to see reinforced mounting holes - no more stripped threads!
I’ve done this myself by gluing nuts on the inside of the mounting holes of the motor, which works great. Not very easy to get them there though, so having this or some other solution done in production would be nice.
Similar, but without the wheel wearing issue, and able to have the same torque as both rear wheel on a single 50XX motor
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I have your motor from 2 years ago with no retaining ring and still in perfectly working condition. I believe because I shielded the motors from impact with a plate covering them. I think you should think about a motor cover for your mounts.
Regarding the motors themselves. Making them sealed away from dust and water will go a long way in improving the life.
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Could you use a mesh that blocks water and only lets in air on a unsealed motor? For instance my phone has a mesh over the speaker that is to fine to let water molecules pass but allows air.
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I’d like to see 3 sizes offered,
a) 6380 or 6384 for single-motor drives (street) & for dual-motor drives (AT)
b) 6369 or 6374 for dual-motor drives (street / AT)
c) 6355 for dual motor drives (street)
Where the 6355 size is as big as can be fit on a 180mm hanger with two 15mm belts
And where all motors are pinned from
- axle slipping (rotationally) inside rotor (can)
- axle pulling out (axially) of rotor (can)
And where the magnets are all battle-hardened and the windings are coated as well
I also think not having sensors in the smaller motors can make more room for bigger stators
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As per here
only the 1 and 3 ways solve both problems. The roll pin and the dutch pin. The key only solves one of the problems.
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Make a skid plate for the motors, that might have saved me tons of motors.
Use bigger and high quality sealed bearings
Use spline shafts on the motor axles, this way you can easily install your own pullies with no keyways
Make all motors with the correct jst connector and the correct length
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Yes I think a good implementation of skid plates would be awesome!
Are you set on these sizes?
Would you rather buy a motor with these measurements and more power for a higher price or rather go smaller with the same power as the old motors for a higher price.
I am currently making a prototye for myself and would like to know what people in general prefer.
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