Follow up confession. This Super73 RX is super fun. Something about not having to watch out for pebbles and just running over train tracks with ease ALMOST makes me want to take my helmet off.
I just rode 20 miles with a bit of pedal assist and throttle and had 51% battery left.
I gotta come clean. I got a 3d printer the other week and I haven’t printed any dicks. Not even a hybrid dick-Dino.
Zero dicks. 
, not even a birds nest mess of a half chub.
Instead, I printed some remote shells I’ve never actually touched. 3 low poly yoda rings, a few t rex skulls, some filament guides, a mini crossbow, and a COVID vaccine.
Ok! okay, okay, dicks inbound, soon ™
(Real confession, I also used Tito’s to try to wipe off the glue stick I smeared on the plate on top of a plate. Leveling is bitch work I hate ).
Manual mesh bed leveling is the best for creality machines. Teaching tech has a great guide. I printed hundreds of face shields back in may and it is still leveled.
Hell yeah dude! Gets those dicks roaring.
Methinks you need to bump your flow up a teeny but (various methods to achieve this in the slicer or on the machine during a print) and explore the “ironing” feature for buttery smooth top faces.
As Anshul mentioned, get it leveled properly and use some stiffer springs and a dab of blue loctite on the bed screws and they shouldn’t budge for a long time. I only have to turn a knob a few mm when I get impatient and rip something off the hot build plate.
I totally have not missed 3d printing.
Started a test print after several months of not using it and I’m already fed up.
What model you using? Printing with proper settings on a properly set machine and leveled bed is a freaking hassle, only after all that you can worry about the shape of your part lol
Ender 3. 2 years old i think.
It’s almost the same problems I’ve had for ages.
Primarily Adhesion. The first laid down line always curls up and sticks itself to the nozzle for a few cm.
Prints not sticking well, even after upgrading to a Glass bed and some in my opinion stupid stuff that cura does.
The printer restarting 10-15 times until it finally connects to the pc. Gcodes not getting accepted
Man that’s a lot of issues pré printing!
In my experience here’s what works consistently but at the cost of some comfort :
- only print from SD card (no bug from computer creeping to the printer, but everything needs to be set properly in gcode too)
- manual bed level check with a 90gr paper sheet
- hair lacquer or washable glue before print
- make sure the motherboard gets airflow for the stepper drivers
- when print starts, get your pliers ready to take every blob of plastic out of the way then let it do the job
Next random things are either the settings in Cura or the belts tensioning.
I have different flow settings based on material for example, also you might be encountering a difference in your heated bed temp between center and edges, it causes warping. Better bet in that case is to heat more than needed so the coolest areas are hot enough for sure.
Reducing infill instead of 100% spreads the heat inside the part and help fight warping too, but I encountered that only with PC…
Odd thing, due to air temp cooling fast even in closed area, for some filaments shutting down the bed after first layers can be the solution too.
Welp tldr : printing is a headache 
I feel your pain.
i used to do that but got annoyed by always walking across the room to remove the sd card just to swap a single file on the pc and walking back over and that multiple times in 10 minutes.
did that multiple times and it looked very good on all corners. Something though depending on what print i use the whole print is in the air. I used the leveling template from CHEP and it leveled good, once i used my own prints the nozzle was scraping on the bed. Other times it leveled fine but then using a print from someone else (that i also sliced in cura with the SAME EXACT PROFILE) it floated 2cm above the heat bed.
Infill i mostly use 20%.
Sounds like either your printer or Cura is a lunatic 
that’s next level randomness!
Is it petg? I had to deal with that for a loooong time
PLA
Tried reflashing a stable build of marlin? You just drop the bin on the SD card and insert into the printer and turn it on. It should boot istelf if you have a bootloader on the printer. Ender 3s are hit or miss on included bootloader though. You can flash a bootloader on it if you have an arduino uno and it’s not already on there.
I have not. All stock software
this is how my floor looks like when i start printing something.
maybe worth a try to see if i have one installed.
Personally I get better adhesion and prints from moving the nozzle a hair closer than it probably should be and reducing the initial layer flow to ~97%.
I feel like it forces the filament to stick better but noticed it was squishing too much filament out. The reduced initial flow helped to compensate.
We’ll continue offering help until it’s fixed!
If all thus fails, I can send you an old, known good, stock board from one of my ender 3s.
I tried pneumatics for the first time today.
I don’t think I can go back to urethane after this.
I regret not selecting PIC32MK.