Ender3 All Metal Direct Drive Upgrade

I use an older firmware version where they had them enabled by default, and I left them that way. I didn’t really look technical detail of what they do, as I did not have any issues.



It looks beautiful and clean. Also printed without any cooling. The layer adhesion is not as good as PETG though. I was able to snap the chimney along the layer lines, with some effort. But otherwise the along all other direction it is impossible to break, even with pliers. Gotta increase the temperature and maybe the flow% too.

Bed adhesion problem was totally solved with half PVA+half water smeared on the build plate. It was strongly stuck to the build plate, I tried removing it with water, alcohol etc. Nothing worked. Then I just increased the build plate temp to 80C and it popped right off.

4 Likes

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3302189. Moisture is no fun. This provides a isolated path for the filament directly to the extruder to reduce exposure to moisture. Have had no moisture related issues with TPU, PETG and more recently nylon.

The one thing i would like to change about this design is the angle at which the ptfe comes out of the dry box. it should be pointed downwards rather than 90 degree from the surface of the box.

image

Thanks guys. God how much I hate solder on jst lol

@mishrasubhransu If you’re enclosing the printer, I recommend you at least remove the PSU from the printer frame and place it outside the printer enclosure. And if possible, also the mainboard wants to be in a cooler environment. Learnt this the hard way - mine overheated and started speaking chinese to me.

The steppers also get a bit toasty in there, a few heatsinks with thermal pads wouldn’t hurt.

5 Likes

Mounted everything … works … well … sort of:

It seems isn’t pushing enough filament … werid

1 Like

search for esteps in TH3D configuration.h. Uncomment #define custom_estesp 415. Upload firmware. This is assuming you are using TH3D

1 Like

Gonna test now! I enable also V6_HOTEND … wish me luck lol :smiley:

1 Like

I should set that too. I wonder what that does, though.

If I read correctly it changes the temperature parameter to have a better reading of the temperature with the new hot end.

1 Like

@mishrasubhransu I’m gonna be your not anymore secret Santa lol

Works pretty decently! Just printed some stuff in PETG and yep still some stringing but damn … fast and if you remove the noise of the big fan … it’s dead silent. The motors are now running in FOC thanks to the new board.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0i_pvtFpYi9roafsyYfN07sNA

2 Likes

which board did you get? did you change it?

I got it from creality:

2 Likes

Haha. I am glad it worked out. Hopefully you can dial in the retraction settings to get quality+strong prints.

And one more thing, try to use cooling fan as less as possible(start with 0). Structural parts are so much stronger without one, in my experience.

Can’t see the video for some reason.

1 Like

Interweb… still uploading :frowning:

Btw … should the big fan bring air from the outside to the hotend radiator or viceversa? Mine is bringing air from the radiator to the outside

I believe sucking hot air from the radiator is the right setup.

BTW, in my post before I was talking about part cooling fan not the hotend cooling fan. You probably knew, haha.

1 Like

This helped tremendously. Before I was getting layer adhesion issues with alloy 910, even at 260C. Now it’s solved.

3 Likes

Nice silent steppers, the latest ones!

Do you guys have problems changing filaments? I’m using the TH3 function in the menu to do it and sometimes I’ve to clean the nozzle with a needle in order to get it trough the hotend.

In a all metal extruder you cut the old filament closest you can to the extruder and feed in the new filament. Extruder out the length of the old filament. Very simple. Pulling it out results in jams.