I got some good profiles here: https://github.com/sn4k3/Ender3
He has settings specific for the direct drive, printer and mostly filaments
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The thing is, after putting direct drive+bondtech+e3dv6 all metal extruder, itās not ender 3 anymore. The extrusion profile completely changes. So I would not benefit from it at all.
Edit: @DAddYE sorry. I totally missed that he gives profiles for direct drive with same modifications as mine. Iāll definitely check it out. Thank you.
BTW, how are the battery modules coming along?
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Good recommendation here, I am going to pick some of this up on the prime day deal today 19 bucks a roll is crazy.
Wait wtf it canāt ship to San Diego??
Iām testing my 3thd iteration, Iāll send you later my step files if interested. Unfortunately PETG strings too much ATM to make out of it a good part. Iām finishing printing the parts needed for the direct drive
Hi! One more question, did you enabled in marlin/th3:
// If you are using an E3D V6 Hotend with their cartridge thermistor (not glass version) uncomment the below line.
#define V6_HOTEND
?
As far as I remember the creality stock hotend and V6 both use an 100k NTC thermistor so it wonāt make a difference, but just to be safe enable it. It is an option because some other printers that the TH3D firmware supports might have a different thermistor.
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Increase the bed to nozzle distance as much as you can, while still making sure that the first layer sticks. The first layer shouldnāt be squished, this is the most important part. Trust me, it will work. Print first layer slow 15mm/sec and others at 35mm/sec. Use 0.5mm line width, so that the nozzle doesnāt touch the already printed line. Use 0.4mm retraction distance.
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It printed great but even with 20 lines of brim the part lifted and warped. So now the print is pretty wonky. Maybe I have to enclose the printer properly. Support structure comes of easily, so thatās a win.
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I got warping only on very large parts. Try different beds. I got lucky with one enclosure on glass and hair spray, first layer 90 degrees then I uncooled the bed.
Any purple glue stick or anything on the bed?
Got pretty much everything including the new creality tsc board!
Did you guys followed any manual?
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Glue stick yes, but not purple. Next time Iāll try the white liquid PVA glue like alloy 910 manufacturer recommends. Other thing which they recommend is 35C build plate. I had mine at 70C. Donāt know if that will affect anything.
First time I hear about 35. Always read 70C as you did. To me different surface bed and mostly an enclosure if you donāt have it. That usually make a lot of different.
There are several on YouTube. The only thing you have to check is how to connect the BL touch instead of the Z limit sensor. Thst sligtly changes if you use Ender3, Creality cr10 or 10s.
Did you also get the pancake stepper motor? I donāt see it in the pic.
Got the parcel from Trianglelab. Really nice. They even included the heat sink for the stepper motor. Looking forward to mount itā¦
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didi you install the bmg and V6 with the 5mm PTFE tube sticking out and going inside the BMG system?
Like in this picture from Bontech
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I used standard PTFE tube, which I think is 4mm OD. It was only sticking out out of the V6 by about 1-2 mm when I installed it, as otherwise it would be hard to install the V6 into the BMG.
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Yes, that ptfe tube is very important. I had put it without and immediately resulted in jam. I followed bondtechās instruction. It should come with one, right?
BTW, donāt ever go back when changing filament. Always cut from top and feed in new filament by running the extruder motor forward.
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Yes that was my doubt. I tried and I can only get like 1mm in the BMG and not 5mm. Thatās why I asked. Ok I will do like that thanks.
The V6 comes with a small fan for the heat sink. In your mount I guess you use a standard 40mm fan instead, right? I donāt have the Noctua, but I guess the stock one from CR10 will work too.