Ender3 All Metal Direct Drive Upgrade

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics
81

Are you also flashing Marlin firmware or Th3d unified? Or do you prefer to keep the stock?

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I have th3d firmware. Love the level corner option. I do intend to install an ABL sometimes and I might flash marlin some day to try

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83

When you enable the BL touch in TH3D, you change the grid size from the ezabl settings. You can set them to any dimensions, although even numbers are not recommended. I use 5x5 on a CR10.

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Ah ok that is not specified in the firmware description. So only enouble bl touch without enable ezabl and modify the grid from there. Is it right?

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For those who use the BLTouch? How do you find it accurate? In my case some times there is a 0.5mm difference between corners.

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Guys, just a side note; not all copies are the same. When doing all the research found there is quite a large difference in quality based on who is doing the copies. I highly recommend the trianglelabs gear as theirs is basically the Bondtech gear at a significantly lower price :slight_smile:

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87

What is it the level corner option?

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True. That’s why I went for trianglelab

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Another unrelated question, Am I the only one that finds PETG Less strong that a generic PLA+? Especially for skateboarding, PETG has literally no flex. What do you guys use?

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PLA doesn’t like water/sunlight/heat and will become a lot more brittle over time so unless you are painting etc you should find that the parts just won’t last as long. Maybe your printing temps aren’t spot on which is causing problems with durability?

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I’m printing at 250 with chep magic 28 profile

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I am printing at 250C too. What filament do you use? Also, do you have cooling on full blast? I print without any cooling for best layer adhesion.

I am using this PETG.

My PETG wheels 200km of riding. It’s 250km at this point. I am impressed by the structural quality.

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93

What profiles are you using?

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I am printing skateboard parts in ABS and PETG. I found PETG superior in layer adhesion. It’s really solid. If you want I can send you my profile for cr10s, but I use S3D as slicer. Then you can change the setting base of your extruder or printer.
I use the sunlu PETG. 3rd rolls at the moment. Good stuff.
SUNLU 1.75mm PETG 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02mm, 2.2 LBS (1KG) Spool,1.75 mm PLA 3D Filament for Most 3D Printer & 3D Printing Pen, PETG Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M8RR22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lUVhDb367CTHK
From printer tower. I print at 235C. It prints well from 230 to 240C.

I always dry my spool before printing.

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95

So, I’ve updated to the TH3 firmware and now I’m using prusa slicer. I found some profiles for the Ender 3 on GitHub and man my prints now are much much better. Give PrusaSlicer a try.

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96

Yeh I always used S3D. I made all my profiles there over the time and never changed. I know now there are way better slicers but I guess I am just lazy to remake all the profiles

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This is a fork of slic3r into which Prusa Research has poured tons of man hours.

simplify 3d is not free, right? I thought it was the best given the fee?

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S3D is like 150$ single payment for a life subscription.

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99

Fan of PrussiaSlic3r, Cura would be my favorite, they introduced a bug in 4.1 which drive me potty with pausing/stuttering prints for a few days tho, went back to v4

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100

I had that too. I immediately googled cura z hop print pausing, the 3rd or 4th link had the solution.

“Change the deafault value of 0 in the field “maximum z-speed” in Cura 4.1 to 50mm/s (or any value reasonably a bit higher than the actual max., z-speed of the ender, which is likely about 10 mm/s) and the stalling is gone.”

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