So I’m planning to buy the Ender 3? Should I go with the pro version? Should I just immediately upgrade to Direct Drive?
And if I want be able to print in Nylon and TPU, I need to upgrade with [this]?(https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BMG-Extruder-Bowden-v6-Hotend-Dual-Drive-Extruder-With-PT100-Sensor-Harden-Nozzle-For-Wanhao-D9/32972082107.html)?
TH3d firmware is super easy to set up these days. Creality has their bltouch firmware on Github.
I could set up the firmware real quick once I’m off work but it’s pretty straight forward.
Get it from their official website:
You have to still flash the firmware but there are no fixes to apply.
If you want to save some money, get a generic one online and I can make a fw for you.
I was following the original marlin guide that has pre-configured creality Cr10s files. Then you will need to define some lines in the code to activate bltouch, set the offset from the nozzle ecc…I am just sure It won’t work the first time, as usually. I will take me some tries 
Do you advice TH3d firmware over the original Marlin? I do not understand why so many possibilities. It’s confusing when you want to track back how to do it.
I already bought the one from trianglelab, didn’t know one was available from Creality. I wil ltry first nad in case ask you guys for help. What is not clear to me is if I need something to flash the firmware or simply by connecting to the printer with USB and then using S3D or Cura to send the firmware. Some tutotial uses a ttl connection to do it.
Only few recents Ender have a bootloader. So your first thing is to get either a arduino o a flash usb thing, so you can burn the bootloader
I have both. Arduino uno , nano and TTL. Which bootloader should I used? If there is a video guide I can follow it. I am master in follow guides 
Here you go:
yep but I have cr10s and the guys is cutting a bit of info in the firmware parts. Connections wise I am fine.
I will probably use the firmware from TH3D firmware. IF someone has one ready to go for Creality Cr10s with bl touch please let me know. Thx
Shouldn’t be that different in fact if I remember correctly the only difference is when you copy the example config.
https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/th3d-unified-firmware-package/ her et he guide with video. In the table I can see Cr10s doesn’t need the bootloader. I will try.
TH3d has everything preconfigured for said printers. Makes it super easy. Select printer, select auto leveling device, select probe offset and set mesh point amounts.
Honestly I’m probably going to eventually switch over to marlin anyway but it makes it about a 10x easier if it’s your first time.
Yes I have checked both the tutorials. Both are fine but the TH3d looks easier. I preconfigured one for Cr10s. I will try it when I get the kit. Thx
What’s the reason for you to switch to marlin?
No main reason but I want to tweak my firmware a little more without having to dig through TH3d firmware.
Also I haven’t been able to get some gcode commands working that are listed in marlin and wanted to see if that was the issue or if something else is going on.
The triangle bl touch is fine with my marlin running MKS L GEN board
One thing I don’t see as option in the th3d unified firmware is the possibility to change the grid for the auto leveling. Like 3x3 or 4x4. I only see it for the ezabl they sell. I hope it’s 3x3 otherwise takes forever 
Trianglelab are the best clones out there… I’m currently upgrading my ender 3 to a DD
Are the extruder steps 415 as the bondtech bmg?
Yes it should be the same… They have the same gear ratio. I recommend starting with 415 and doing e steps calibration after to see if it works