Please document it well, I make that a solution. I wish i had done it then.
100% go direct drive - triangle labs bondtech copy. The hardest part is rewiring a pancake stepper but you can run the stock extruder stepper of if you dont want to fork the extra cash. Just a lot more wieght.
@rey8801 I havenāt had any problems with the brass but they are the triangle labs ones too haha 
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I suggest everyone to look on YouTube. There are a lot of bontech, trianglelab bmg upgrade. Both bowden and direct drive. Pretty well documented.
Direct drive alone with bmg extruder can be run on normal stock firmware. You need to change the extruder steps as @mishrasubhransu suggested. While if you want to install some auto leveling sensor then you need to flash marlin. Not difficult to do it but for sure more tricky then simple bmg conversion.
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Do you think nylon is worth it over PETG?
Iām waiting for my uni and bltouch to come still. Not looking forward to the firmware flash.
Yes of you want to make real mechanical parts. For the rest no. I will try to find a video I have seen recently. My expression afterwards was like 
Check it out. PETG can not do that
Afterwards I bought the coversion kit 
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I printed pulleys for the mad hubs with alloy 910, man, that thing is super strong! Iām on Ender 3 Pro with the Swiss End, and with a little stringing, you can print good nylon.
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did you do it with the capricorn bowden tube or classical white one? Taulman is stil a printable nylon due to the printing temperature be accessible. It is super strong! Great filament.
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Iām using the good blue one 
You have to extend the 4 wires to the extruder and thatās it. I have added connectors to all the parts on my carriage, so I can easily replace a part if it gets faulty withough having to splice and solder wires every time.
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My PETG was pretty great too, but then I found a new PETG filament thatās really cheap $15-17 a kg thatās tougher(doesnāt shatter but rather bends), but it crawls up my nozzle and ruins quality on bigger prints. I just got the new nozzle, itās shiny. If it works then great otherwise I just switchback to my regular filament.
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Pronting temperature? It should be good up to 250C but some nylon goes over.
What do you use as the base-plate for 910? Currently I have a glass plate with some dotted coating. With a bit of hairspray(that I use once every 20 prints or so), everything sticks to it. Before every print I spray a bit of isopropyl alcohol(you get it from pharmacy) to recondition the hairspray.
Iām printing at 260 on glass with purple glue or hair spray. So far not so bad. Iāll share some pics when I get home.
By the way, does anyone have link of a good direct kit on amazon? Things from outside the US, takes ages to arrive. Iām still waiting the new board from crealityā¦ ordered more than a month ago lol
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You can install it yourself itās no more difficult than grip tape
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Thatās how I have been doing so far. It works great but at bought gemellato over the time of detaces a bit. Need to flash it down everytime. I would like something more durable. I ordered the Energetic lab suggested by @VykkuF. Letās see
Good the you can print at that temperature. Even calorici after house of printing at 245X J founded the top in contact with the hot end a bit melted a bit.
Btw Trianglelab so DHL and FedEx if you want.
Anyhow @mishrasubhransu posted links from Amanoz as well in the first post I think.
If you seach for bmg extruder dual drive you find a lot.
If you want tinglelab costs a bit more then from Ali but you get the V6 too
The only thing missing is the pancake stepper motor nema 17. Link
Original Bontech but for many trianglelab is even better.
Check if your printer is 24 or 12V. Last Ender version are 24V I think.
Last upgrade I would dp by you med to flash Marlin.
From Trianglelab is 13$. So I would advice to buy all the parts and do express shipping.
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Like Alessio said, just order from triangle labs but use faster shipping. They are pretty prompt.
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If you move to direct drive I would also advice a cheap upgrade to help the z axis. Anti backlash nut.
I also add this but I do not if that is the same for Ender https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33013348068.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4ce64c4duR1wY8 since I always hated the play on top. On tall prints it for sure helps.
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I already have BLTouch. Guys, buy it Directly from creality, the others that are around needs a bunch of fixes on the firmware. Iāve done them, but took quite a bit to get it right.
Thank guys for the links!
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OS with the one from Creality was just plug nad play and maybe flas ha creality firmware? Do you have a link? If I can avoid to mess up with Marlin I will be happy of that.