PEI works great for me. I use an “Eryone” magnetic flexible steel surface with a PEI Sheet, it was £50 for a 310*310 size, and has been perfect for PLA, PETG, and a single small print from ABS. Haven’t tried Nylon yet, I’m in the process of building another printer for the high temp prints that require an enclosure, and will try it on that one.
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Thanks for the info, the problem with magnetic surface is that when you print at high temp they get demagnetise.
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Cheap ones do, but this one I think is advertised for 130 or 150 degrees, and i’ve run loads of rolls of PETG at 80 degrees and a small print out of ABS at 105 degrees, and it is holding as well as the first day i got it.
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Link please 
I am in UK, and this is the one I ordered from Amazon.
They have other smaller sizes too. The printer I am building at the moment is a 400mm Hypercube Evo, and they don’t have those in the size I need, so for the new printer I ordered this one from Aliexpress.
It also seems to have good reviews, is cheaper, available anywhere as its shipped from China, and I suspect it might be just a rebranding. I haven’t received it yet, and I think I will get to test it in about 3-4 weeks, depending on when I get all the parts.
Also you do need some sort of mesh levelling if you’re planning to get a magnetic plate. It will fluctuate slightly in height (about 0.1 mm in my experience), so I added a Trianglelab BL Touch clone and have been getting perfect results using a 5x5 mesh.
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Yep I am installing a trianglelab BL touch.
Do you run the auto leveling all the time or it can be kept in memory for like a cr10 (if you know that of course)
I run it all the time, as every time you remove and add back the plate the level might slightly change. I have however edited in firmware the speeds and acceleration of all the moves during autoleveling except the probing itself, and now the whole process takes slightly over a minute.
My current printer is a CR10 with some mods, Dual Z, BMG Direct extruder, dampeners etc. Still on the stock mainboard as haven’t had a reason to upgrade it, it has just enough memory to run a BL touch and linear advance if I disable all the unnecessary things.
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Same here. I print nylon with the Swiss end, I’ll try the direct one too… as soon I find a good one on amazon 
Same printer. Would you mind to send me your Marlin firmware. So everything is already done!
Bondtech is the original one. Trianglelab the best clone to me.
On Amazon you find several that will work just fine.
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I’ll have to check if I still have the firmware. I have flashed it quite a long time ago.
Also I seem to have less issues with the Trianglelab stuff that with genuine E3D. I am maintaining a few Prusas at a maker space, and they have extrusion related problems quite often, even though i only use genuine parts for them.
I’ve had a prusa mk3 for a while. It has magnetic pei bed, bondtech, etc. Maybe I can answer some of these questiens.
I’ve had my bed up to 110c many many times. Magnets are still strong. The spring steel seems to warp when hot though, so I can’t get good first layer on the whole bed now. This happened gradually.
Prusa slicer and firmware does mesh bed leveling at the start of every print, 9 points.
PEI works great for everything so far. The stock pei sheet adhesive is some 3M product, and has not been affected by bed heat.
PETG sticks a little too strong, so need to soften the grip with windex on a wipe with bare hands. TPU sticks crazy too hard, so I use blue tape on top of PEI.
I have a very early mk3 and it’s been and continues to be a bit of a struggle. Pretty much as expected. I’ll be refurbishing all the printable parts soon, and probably buying updated parts from prusa. I always wonder, if the most reputable printer needs this much TLC, how much work is owning a lower tier printer? Lol maybe it’s just me.
Question for you guys. Is e3d v6 hotend too expensive, enough to shop for clones? Youtube reviews I watched when narrowing down between prusa and creality made it seem like there’s a difference?
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Definitely. A Trianglelab E3D V6 is £13, but the original is £51. I’ve had better experiences with the Trianglelab one, but that might be mainly because i used the Trianglelab with a geared extruder, and the E3D on non geared stock extruders from MK2S and MK3.
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Mthanks for all the info. I guess I will stick to Pei sinc eit work for me so far. Need to find a bed with that already installed.
For me stuffs from Trianglelab are really good. Not cheap general Chinese clone
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Ah because you said you have changed in the firmware so I thought you did it often.
When you add the extruder, hotend, motor everything, it becomes very expensive. Trianglelabs is cheaper but excellent quality.
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Look for original e3d copper plated nozzle. It has a coating that reduces the chances of PETG sticking to it and you get cleaner prints. It also has the best thermal propertie(because copper), compared to all other nozzles. Of course you can get clones from trianglelabs but price is not all that different. 8 vs 15
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How much rewiring is needed to make the move to direct drive? Is it simply plugging the old extruder cable into the new motor?
Thanks. I have seen that nozzle. Honestly my PETG l, PLA and ABS prints are really good. I am only getting it to move to Nylon filaments. I am really looking forward to this upgrade.